RAPHIA AND REED 

WEAVING 




KNAPP 




Class LB 15^3 

Book >KS5 

Copyright N° . 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



RAPHIA AND REED 
WEAVING 



INCLUDING ALSO 



' CARDBOARD AND PAPER CONSTRUCTION 

A PRACTICAL COURSE FOR PRIMARY AND 
ELEMENTARY SCHOOLS 



By ELIZABETH SANBORN KNAPP 

(Principal of School No. 12, Yonkers, N. Y.) 



" Head you may think; heart, you may feel ; 
But hand, you shall work always." 



A 



s *%^^^sf 






1901 

MILTON BRADLEY COMPANY 

Springfield, Mass. 

new york philadelphia atlanta san francisco 




THE LIBRARY OF 

CONGRESS, 
Two Copies Received 

SEP. 4 1901 

Copyright entry 
CLo*, ty 'for 
CLASS <2/XXc. No. 

copy a 






Copyrighted, 1901, by 

Milton Bradley Company, 

Springfield, Mass. 






< . < 






PREFACE. 

The object of this book is to give to class teachers a com- 
plete series of models arranged in graded sequence, and 
extending from the Kindergarten to the grammar grade. 

Though well aware that no book can be a substitute for 
an efficient instructor, efforts have been made to give the 
operations in minute detail in order to assist those teachers 
who, untrained in manual work, appreciate its value as an 
educational factor, and believe that the development of the 
senses, touch included, and the training of the hand in 
artisanship, must be the root of mind growth. 

This book is the outcome of many years' experience in 
teaching and study, whereby the need was felt for such a 
series of elementary models as could be worked out in the 
class room by the class teacher, and its chief object is to show 
that hand training should and can be introduced in the Kin- 
dergarten and continued, without the usual break, into the 
High School. Although the models are not arranged in cor- 
relation with any particular subject, here may ber found the 
basis from which can be constructed such objects as are 
adapted to any subject taught. No teacher should feel con- 
fined to a certain set of models, yet there must be such a 
development in the gradation as will make the work easy and 
delightful to the young pupils, and the articles made of such 
form and nature, and so systematically arranged, that there 
will be a steady growth in all phases of the work, and thus 
the child's instinct for activity satisfied and cultivated, and 
pleasure excited in the acquisition of skill. 



CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Outline Course in Constructive Work 5 

Introduction 7 

Construction in Paper — Series 1 9 

Free Weaving — Series 1 18 

Construction in Paper — Series II 25 

Construction by Measurement 34 

Free Weaving — Series II 38 

Construction in Cardboard — Second Year 44 

Reed Weaving 63 

Construction in Cabdboard — Third Year 77 

Course in Eaphia 99 

Raphia with Slats, Wire, etc Ill 



OUTLINE COURSE IN CONSTRUCTIVE WORK. 

GRADE, ELEMENTARY FIRST. TWENTY MINUTES DAILY. 

SUBJECT. MATERIAL. MODEL. 

Measurement. . Rulers, spaced one inch. Lines and geometric forms. 

Free Weaving-. Paper strips one inch wide. Gifts, such as boxes, baskets, 

frames, cornucopia?, etc. 
Construction . . Paper folded into squares. Seed and flower boxes and 

baskets, colonial furniture, 

tents, canoes, etc. 
Knot Work Cotton Twine. Horse lines and whip, chain 

for whistle. 

GRADE, ADVANCED FIRST. TWENTY MINUTES DAILY. 

Measurement. . Rulers spaced one-half inch. Geometric forms, simple sur- 

face covering'. 
Free Weaving. Paper strips one-half inch wide. Gifts, as handkerchief box, 

napkin ring, blotters, etc. 
I Paper, folded. Parlor, kitchen, dining room 

Construction . . •< furniture for dolls' houses. 

( Oak tag, measured and cut. Boxes, letter cases, etc. 

SECOND YEAR. THIRTY MINUTES BI-WEEKLY. 

^Measurement Rulers spaced one-quarter inch [Wall pockets, portfolios, 
■{ and and I pocketbooks, etc. 

(Construction Colored bristol board. (Boxes and envelopes for 

school use. 

Weaving ( Reeds, pith, raphia, wire Mats, trays, baskets of various 

■s and shapes and sizes. 

( With the loom. Strips for carriage covers, etc. 

Toy Making — Glass, tin, spools, thin wood, etc. Kaleidoscope, bandilore, shelf, 

jumping jack, etc. 

THIRD YEAR. TWENTY MINUTES WEEKLY. 

Construction Straw board, jute board, etc. Portfolio, boxes covered, 

(Girls and Boys) match safe, etc. 

ONE HOUR WEEKLY. 

( Raphia, braided and sewed. Mats, bags, belts, doll hat, 

(Girls) •< bonnets, etc. 

( Advanced knot work. Hammocks, shopping bags, 

Construction ( Wood (at bench) etc. 

(Boys) •< and 

( Working drawings. 

FOURTH YEAR. ONE HOUR WEEKLY. 

Sewing (Girls) Bags, aprons, sofa pillow (out- 

lined), skirt, waist, etc. 
Woodwork ) 

and MBoys) 

Working Drawings. S 

FIFTH YEAR. TWO HOURS WEEKLY. 

Cooking (Girls) 

Woodwork ) 

Bent-iron and V (Boys) 

Wood Carving. \ 



■) • RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 

THIRD YEAR— WOOD WORKING. FOURTH YEAR— WOOD WORKING. 



1. 


Boxes for window gardening. 




1. 


Box, square joint, for window gar- 


2 


Cat and bat. 






2. 


Box, 


planned by pupils. 


3. 


Ring and ball puzzle. 






3. 


Maki 


ng Bench hook. 


4. 


Game of dart. 






4. 


" 


Nail box. 


5. 


Jumping Jack— I. II. 






5. 


" 


Plant rack. 


6. 


Whistle— I. II. 






6. 


" 


Bracket. 


7. 


Rack for " egg farm 


" (fqr nature 


7. 


" 


Shelf. 




study). 












8. 


Butterfly press. 






8. 


bt 


Loom, for use in Seconc 
year. 


9. 


Color whirligig. 






9. 


" 


Weather vane. 


10. 


Pencil box. 






10. 


M 


Work box. 


11. 


Swing for doll. 






11. 


" 


Stool. 


12. 


Dominoes and box. 






12. 


" 


Wheel-barrow. 


13. 


Weather vane. 






13. 


" 


Christmas tree stand. 


14. 


Ring toss. 






14. 


" 


Cart. 


15. 


Stilts. 






15. 


kt 


Water wheel. 


16. 


Ant nest. 






16. 
17. 


ti 


Key rack. 
Bird house. 






FOURTH 


YEAR. 


SEWING. 



Practice work on unbleached muslin; running, over-handing, stitching, 
two runs and a back stitch, and hemming stitch. 

Practical application; holdei-s, cooking caps, sewing aprons, work bags, 
dusters, dish cloth, sofa pillow, (covei'S cross-stitched,) muslin undergarments 
and shirt waist, refooting and darning of stockings. 

Talks on weaving of cloths— explanation of warp. 

FIFTH YEAR. WOOD WORKING. 

1. Making plant box. (Use of rip and crosscut saw.) 

2. Marble board. (Chisel exercise.) 

3. Bracket. (Practice with spoke shave.) 

4. Ladder, or water-tight box. (Application of housed joint.) 

5. Plant stand. (Application of halved joint.) 

6. Making round stick. (Ruler.) 

7. Knife box. 

8. Making bird house. (Brace and bit exercise.) 

9. Letter rack. (Decoration, carving.) 

10. Stool. (Use of bevel square.) 

11. Handkerchief box. (Decoration, chip carving.) 

12. Glove box. (Carved, relief.) 

13. Shelf. (Decoration, bent iron.) 

14. Picture frames. (Decoration, pyrography.) 

15. Strong box. (Metal bound.) 

16. Newspaper rack. (Carved.) 

17. Spool box. (Hinged cover, decorated.) 

18. Sun dial, 

19. Plumb bob. 



INTRODUCTION. 

In order to secure exactness in construction in cardboard 
or wood the pupil must be taught to read and intelligently 
use the ruler, and in the foregoing series of lessons two periods 
per week are devoted to instruction in measurement. 

But ten minutes are given to the first lesson. The idea of 
measuring, by inches, having been well developed by using 
inch sticks and tablets, the pupils are provided with rulers 
marked olf in one-inch spaces, and these, together with the 
sticks, furnish material for many additional lessons, the child 
being taught to measure from any given point on the ruler in 
either direction. This development should not be hurried; 
exercises in judging and then testing measurements of vari- 
ous tablets and objects should be given, and results should be 
satisfactory, if at the end of first school year the pupils are 
able to space and rule both horizontal and vertical lines, and 
cut strips of paper to given lengths. 

Variety and pleasure are given by using black pencils for 
spacing and colored ones for ruling the lines. The idea of 
one-half inch is introduced into the work of the next year 
{advanced first), beginning with the ruling of parallel lines, 
then drawing to measurement various rectangular figures, 
introducing in the latter part of the school year the develop- 
ment of simple folding boxes. This work is carried on 
through the second and third year, by a succession of graded 
models made up in various materials. 

For all cardboard work the Essex bristol is used. This is 
comparatively inexpensive and may be secured in a variety of 
colors. Portfolios, frames, pocketbooks, etc., are covered 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



with leatherette, and a heavy quality of book-cover paper is 
used for the construction of many of the models. 

One period per week is taken for weaving. Harmonious 
combinations of two colors of book-cover paper, cut into 
strips one inch wide for elementary first, and one-half inch 
for advanced first, form the basis; and from this are con- 
structed napkin rings, baskets, picture frames, and boxes of 
various shapes and sizes. 

In the second and third year reeds and raphia are fur- 
nished, and by combinations of both of these, many easily 
constructed gifts, such as mats, baskets, chairs, etc., can be 
made and preserved for use at Christmas or Easter time. 

Two periods per week are given to lessons in construction 
— the material for first two years being various shades of 
" bluefiber " or "eel-skin" paper, cut into squares 6" x G" 
and folded into most delightful forms, complete sets of fur- 
niture for dolls' houses being easily made by little fingers. 
This paper creases easily, retains its shape and is very inex- 
pensive, thirty cents covering all cost for a class of fifty, 
twenty models for each child. 

Variety is given to the work of the second year by using 
glass, cardboard, thin wood, or tin, in the production of 
kaleidoscopes, bandilores, jumping-jacks, swings, etc. 

The boy in third year is eager and well-fitted to take up 
bench work, and the girl to be initiated into the cutting and 
making of dolls' garments ; from now on the manual training 
teacher finds his pupils equipped with a fund of knowledge 
which will prove helpful in the making and understanding of 
working drawings. 



CONSTRUCTION IN PAPER. 

Series I. 
ELEMENTARY FIRST GRADE. 

Time twenty minutes bi-weekly. 

The following models are based on the folded square, and 
constructed from a stiff quality of fiber, manila, or hercules 
cover paper, the latter being most expensive. In the dia- 
grams, the light lines indicate folds, the heavy lines, cuts. 

In giving these lessons the teacher should place the lines 
on the board as she dictates the folding, first drawing a large 
square to represent the square of paper, then the horizontal 
diameter for first fold, indicating each additional fold by a 
new line. After all folds have been indicated in the drawing 
with white crayon, show with colored crayon the lines to be 
cut, and by erasing lines, show which squares are to be cut out. 
Variety can be given to the manner of presenting the 
lesson by requiring pupils to work from the drawing only, 
without dictation, each new line drawn indicating a step in 
the work. Power is thus given to the child to enable him to 
interpret readily the more difficult drawings which he will 
meet when he works from measurement. 

Not more than twenty minutes should be given to each 
lesson ; and as it will take two periods to develop some of the 
models, time may be saved by providing each pupil with a 
portfolio, made from oak tag, in which he may place his unfin- 
ished work and waste pieces, all of which are to be saved and 
utilized in the making of the different models. The muci- 
lage may be placed on several small dishes on a table, each 
child, after showing his work properly folded, passing to the 



10 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



table and pasting into shape. This is a more cleanly and a 
quicker way than to furnish paste for each child. 













R 


lodel I. Square Box. 






































Model II. Oblong Box. 



Fig. 1. Fig. 2. 

MODEL I. — SQUARE BOX. 

Fold the paper into sixteen small squares. (See Fig. 1.) 
Cut in on the heavy lines, fold on the light lines. Fold into 
shape and paste, using mucilage. 

MODEL II. — OBLONG BOX. 

Cut off four squares on the right side or from top. (See 
Fig 2.) Indicate this on blackboard by erasing. Cut in on 
heavy lines, fold into shape and paste. Put the mucilage on 
both sides of the center square and bring the ends around, 
one inside and one outside the center. 





Model III. Cubical Box. 



Model IV. Comb Case. 



CONSTRUCTION IN PAPER. 



11 



MODEL III. — CUBICAL BOX. 

Cut as indicated by full lines, leaving nine squares. 
3.) Fold into shape and paste. 



(Fig. 


































, 



- 


o 


o 










: 



















Fig. 3. Fig. 4. 

MODEL IV. — COMB CASE. 

Cut out upper corner square. (Fig. 4.) Cut in on full 
lines and fold into shape. Perforate back for hanging. 




o o 



Model V. Match Safe. 



Fig. 5. 




I 




Model VI. Table. 



Fig. 6. 



Fig. 7. 



12 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



MODEL V. — MATCH SAFE. 

Out off four squares on the right side. (Fig. 5.) Cut 
out the upper corner squares. Cut in on the remaining full 
lines and fold into shape. Perforate for hanging. 

MODEL VI. — TABLE. 

Cut and fold as for Model I. (Fig 6.), using for legs the 
four squares cut away from Model V. (Fig. 7.) Fold each 
of these squares on the diagonal, and glue them into the cor- 
ners of the inverted box. For the tablecloth, fold a piece of 
thin white paper into sixteen squares and then cut off about a 
quarter of an inch around the edge. The cloth may be 
fringed if desired. 




— 

. — I 



Model VII. Fig. 8. 

MODEL VII. CHAIR. 

Cut as indicated at Fig. 8. Fold the corner squares back, 
and bring the back of the chair up into position. Fold the 
remaining two squares back and strengthen the back of the 
chair by using the four squares cut away, folded through the 
width and glued to the back. 

MODEL VIII. —LUNCH BOX. 

Two squares of paper, 6 ins. x 6 ins. are required for this 
model. For the box construct as in Fig. 2, Model II. 



Model VIII. Lunch Box. 



CONSTRUCTION IN PAPER. 



13 



Pattern for the cover will be found in Fig. 10. For the 
curved lines trace around a one-inch semi-circular tablet. 



1 » 





- 
























1 





Fig. 10. 




Hall Bench. 



Fig. 11. Fig. 12. 

MODEL IX. — HALL BENCH. 

But one square need be given to pupil 
for the construction of this model, as the 
piece cut from Fig. 11 will form Fig. 12. 

Cut out corner according to diagram 
and then cut in for laps, fold into posi- 
tion and paste, using Fig. 12 for back 
and arms. 



MODEL X. — SLED. 

Cut off four squares as indicated in Fig. 13, then fold 
each outside square to half its width, and cut off the half at 
upper end, then fold back for runners and cut curved lines as 
indicated, using Fig. 14 for brace. 



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1 



i, 





Model X. Sled. Model XI. Butter Dish. 

MODEL XI. — BUTTER DISH. 

But one square is needed for this model ; fold and cut as 
indicated in Fig. 15, folding the diagonal edge back to a and 
cut off the projecting ends after pasting. 



14 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



MODEL XII. — CORNER SHELF. 

Fold and cut as indicated at Fig. 16, using for top of the 
shelf two of the squares cut away, curving this piece to suit 
the fancy of the pupil. 





1 




i 

■:;;i"Z 




i 








1 
i 








A 




A 









/a 


















/ 









Fig. 13. 



Fig. 14. 



Fig. 15. 




Model XII. Corner Shelf. 



Model XIII. Side Shelf. 



h/o-fyyO^ 


Atty 














/ 


\ 
















Fig. 16. 



Fig. 18. 



Fig. 17. 
MODEL XIII. — SIDE SHELF. 

But one whole square need he passed for this model, using 
for the brackets the piece cut away from Fig. 16. 

Fold Fig. 17 on center line, and then fold up for top half 
and down for bottom half of the back, glue into shape and 



CONSTRUCTION IN PAPER. 



15 



then acid the brackets which are to be cut and folded as indi- 
cated in Fig. 18. 

MODEL XIV. CHAIR. 

Use one square for this model. Cut as indicated at Fig. 
10, fold into position and paste. The paper may be so folded 
as to bring the two arms together and then cut into curves, if 
desired. 








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1 1 



Model XIV. Chair. 



Model XV. Carriage. 



Fig. 20. 









N. 





















































I 





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i | 

i 

i 
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Fig. 19. 



Fig. 21. 



Fig. 22. Handle. 




MODEL XV. — CARRIAGE. 

Two squares will be required for this model. 

Fig. 23. The wheels may be cut from extra pi^ce in Fig. 19. 

Cut and fold Figs. 20 and 21 as indicated. Use for the 

handle the pieces cut away, folding the handle double and 

making it eight squares in length. Glue this to shape and 

place in position before the top of the carriage is glued at the 



16 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



sides. Use toothpicks for axles and peas for hubs. If the 
back wheels are made larger than the front ones, then the 
back axle must be placed higher than the front one. 

MODEL XVI. — HOUSE. 

But one square is used for this model. Out and fold as 
indicated at Fig. 24, the dotted lines indicating a fold, into 
half widths; glue these folds back. 

MODEL XVII. — COW SHED. 

Fold and cut as indicated at Fig. 25. Glue into position 
and then cut off that part of the end which extends above 
the roof. 





Model XVI. House. 



Model XVII. Cow Shed. 











1 




i 


1 

I 

1 


1 
1 




! 


I 
1 








• 



Fig. 24. 
MODEL XVIII. 



BARN". 



Use two squares for this 
model. Cut and fold as indi- 
cated at Fig. 26. A roof may 
be added as indicated at Fig. 

27. 







X 








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i 
i 

4 




.; 




i 

J 
1 
1 
1 


1 


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Fig. 25. 



Model XVIII. Barn. 



CONSTRUCTION IN PAPER. 



17 




MODEL XIX. — HEN COOP. 

Cut as indicated at Fig. 28, folding the 
pattern as indicated by dotted lines before 



Model XIX. Hen Coop, cutting out the slats 



1 














t 



















1 







s 


/ 




\ 


\ 




/ 


1 








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Fig. 26. 



Fig. 27. 



Fig. 28. 



FREE WEAVING. 

Series I. 
ELEMENTARY FIRST YEAR. 

Material required for entire course of twelve models, five 
sheets of 48-pound laid antique book- cover paper (of contrast- 
ing colors) cut into strips one inch wide. 

MODEL I. GROUND FORM OR FOUNDATION. 

Material. — Two strips of red or scarlet. 
Three strips of fawn. 

Fold red strips across the width through the middle. 
Fold the fawn color through the middle, tear and fold again 
and lay these pieces on the desk. 

Lay the two folded red strips on the desk; long edge 
extending from left to right, with upper piece extending 
about two inches beyond left end of the lower piece, open 
ends toward the left; have the open ends of the lower piece 
toward the right. Much future trouble will be avoided if the 
teacher requires this same arrangement at each lesson. 

Now taking one of the short pieces, or weavers, in the 
right hand, beginning at the top and left end pass the two 
ends of the weaver outside the top and inside the lower 
double strip, drawing the loop ends up close ; now with the 
second weaver work in the same manner from the bottom 
upward; then with another weaver work from the top and so 
on, until all the strips are used. The teacher may easily 
judge if all weaving is correct by asking the pupil to hold up 
the work and at the same time turn it, after each weaver is 
inserted, as both sides will be alike if correctly woven. 

The work is tightened by pulling the opposite ends of 
the horizontal strips, and every two of the weavers, until the 
work is flat. 

To hold the weaving securely in place, open the free ends 
and place the paste inside, using a thin, flat pasting stick. 



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20 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 




MODEL II. — BOOK MARK. 

Material. — Two strips 
of fawn. Four strips of 
red. 

(Waste of material will 
be avoided if the two colors 
are used alternately in the 
long strips.) 

Weave as before, and 
after pasting, notch the 
ends of the weavers close 
to the long strip, leaving 
the free ends of the long 
strip about three inches 
in length. Notch these 
also. 



FREE WEAVING. 



21 



MODEL III. NAPKIN RING. 

Material. — Two strips of red, four strips of fawn. 

Using fawn for weavers, proceed as for bookmark, and 
after tightening and pasting, cut all weavers close to the long 
strips, and cut the end of the long strips so as to leave 1\ inches 
extending. Out 



corners 
from these ends, and bring- 
ing the two ends of weaving 
together insert each free 
end under the second square 
on the opposite end. Glue 
should be used to hold this 
in position, placed under 
the two outside squares. 

MODEL IV. - - MATCH SAFE. 

Material. — One strip of red, two strips of fawn. 
Use red for horizontal strips, tearing into two and folding. 
Make four weavers from other strips. Insert the weavers and 

cut close all free ends at 




O the top. Fold at each 

square, pressing flat to se- 
cure sharp edges. Insert 
the long ends into the oppo- 
site side and shape to ob- 
long box. Overlap the free 
ends on the bottom, cut to 
length and glue . ut from 
cardboard of some harmo- 
nious color, a piece 4x3 
inches, and glue the box to 
this near the lower left cor- 
ner. Cut a piece of No. 1 
sandpaper 1x2 inches and 
fasten it to the right of the 

box. Perforate the top of cardboard in two places and pass 

ribbon through for hanging. 





22 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



MODEL V. RULER. 

Material. — Four strips of scarlet, six strips of fawn. 
Glue together each two of the scarlet strips, and use the 
fawn for weavers. Weave strip twelve inches long, and after 





fastening the weaving cut all ends close and mark each square 
in numbers from one to twelve. 

Before allowing the pupil to take this model home, teach 
its use in measuring. 

MODEL VI. CUBICAL BOX. 

Material. — Two strips of fawn, four strips of scarlet. 

Using scarlet for weavers, make a strip eight inches long. 
Glue the ends, and cut close all weavers on the 
top edge. Fold at every two squares, creasing 
well, and then join the ends by inserting under 
opposite squares. Now interlace the other ends 
of the weavers for bottom of the box, and glue 
to position. 

MODEL VII. — PICTURE FRAME. 

Weave as for ruler, 
making four strips, 
each twelve inches in 
length. Cross ends 
for frame, and fasten 
at each corner with 
round head Magill fas- 
teners. Cut a piece of 
cardboard to size, and 
glue to the back, leav- 
ing an opening at the 
top. In this card- 
board perforate holes? , 
through which pass 
ribbon for hanging. 




FREE WEAVING. 



23 




MODEL VIII. — ROUND BOX. 

Material. — - Four strips of fawn. 

Seven strips of scarlet. 

After gluing the fawn strips so as to make two long ones, 
use the scarlet for weavers and 
make a strip fourteen inches 
long. Fasten the ends of the 
weavers at the top and cut close. 
Bring the opposite ends of the 
woven piece together, and fasten 
by inserting loose ends under the 
opposite square. Bend up the 
remaining ends of wearers for 
the bottom of the box, and cut two circular pieces of card- 
board to fit the bottom; glue one out side and one inside the 
box. 

MODEL IX. OBLOXG BOX. 

Material. — Six strips of scarlet. 
Eleven strips of fawn. 

Weave band sixteen inches 
long for box (cover separate). 
Fasten all weavers on the top 
edge and cut close. Count two 
inches from one end and fold for 
the end of the box ; then six inch- 
es for one side, and again two 
for the end. Glue into shape and 
fit oblong piece of cardboard both 
inside and outside of box. Weave 
a strip six inches long for the 
cover; punch holes one inch in 

from both ends of the cover and the box and hinge with 

ribbon. 




24 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



MODEL X. — BOX WITH HANDLE. 

Material. — Sixteen strips of fawn. 
Six strips of scarlet. 

Using fawn for weavers make a band twenty inches in 

length. Out the top ends 
close and glue to shape, five 
inches on a side. Fit a dou- 
ble bottom of cardboard and 




_,M weave the strips for the han- 
dle, fastening the handle to 
the box by using Magill pa- 
per fasteners. 

MODEL XI. — CUBICAL BOX WITH COVER WOVEN ON. 

Material. — Five strips of scarlet. 
Three strips of fawn. 

Use scarlet for weavers, but keep two of 
them full length, tearing the others into halves 
and folding. Weave first with four short weav- 
ers, then insert two long ones. Do not pull 
these two down close but let them remain far 
enough above the woven strip to allow the inser- 
tion of two fawn-colored strips, and then pull 
down to position and insert the other two weav- 
ers. Fasten into shape and form the bottom 

as for Model VI. 

This makes a very pretty candy box and the cover may be 

fastened by tying a band of ribbon round the box. 

MODEL XII. — PINCUSHION. 

Material. — Two strips of fawn. 
Five strips of scarlet. 

Using scarlet for weavers, make a strip 
ten inches long. Shape as for circular box 
and fit double bottom of cardboard. Make 
a simple form of cushion to fit this box and 
glue it to position. 





CONSTRUCTION IN PAPER 

Series II. 
ADVANCED FIRST GRADE. 

MODEL I. — ASH CART. 

Using one square of paper, 6 in. x G in. , fold and cut as 
indicated at Fig. 1. As the wheels are too large to be cut 
from waste pieces, it will be necessary to give each pupil one- 




Model I. 



7 y N 




















X 




J 
"1 












V 



Fig. 1. 



half a square of paper from which the wheels may be cut. 
This piece is not to be folded into squares. Use toothpicks 
for axle and thills and peas for hubs. 



} 



Model II. Tray. 

Cut as indicated at Fig. 2. 
Fold back at dotted lines and 
bring laps into position, placing 
them under the edge folded down. 



-_ r _ 








1 ' 
1 

1 . . 

1 








1 

1 
1 








1 
1 


1 






1 

1 



Fig. 2. 



MODEL III. — BUTTON BOX. 

Cut as indicated at Fig. 3, bring laps into position and 
paste. 



26 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



MODEL IV. — EXPKESS WAGON. 

Fold and cut square 6 in. x 6 in., as indicated at Fig. 4, 
using for Fig. 5 one of the pieces cut away, and making the 
seat from the other piece. The depth of the box is but one- 




Model III. Button Box. 



Fig. 3. 




Model IV. Express Wagon. 






♦fr" A 


o^xvof 


















































s»~<t 


rV «*•> 





Fig. 5. Fig. 4. 

half the width of the square. Use toothpick for handle and 
peas for hubs. A cheap quality of collar button may be used 
for hubs, passing them through the wagon box from the 
inside, and then through the wheel. 



f; 



=^l 



X 



MODEL V. SLEIGH WITH BOX. 

Fold and cut the sleigh as indicated at Fig. 6, and the 



CONSTRUCTION IX PAPER. 



27 



box at Fig. 7. Pass the end of a piece of cord eight inches 
long through the holes, and fasten. 



¥ 



^ 















) 


\ 




1 



Fig. 6, Fig. 7. 

MODEL VI. — EGG BOX. 

Cut box as indicated at Fig. 8, and cover at Fig. 9, using 
one-inch semi-circular tablets for tracing thumb places. 

Use for partitions pieces cut away from Figs. 6 and 7, and 
cut as indicated at Fig. 10. 






1 V, 

1 


j 


















* 




r 


\ 





Fig. 8. 



Fig. 9. 




~hr 



jUfj 



*hr 



Lcjfj 



Model VI. Egg Box. 



Fig. 10. 



28 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



MODEL VII. — SHOPPING BAG. 

Fold and cut as indicated at Fig. 11, saving for handle 
the piece cut away, and folding it in the middle — lengthwise. 
Cut and use one piece for handle, folding it lengthwise and 






























O ft/nfc $• ■V AhoaaoU it. 



Model VII 



Fig. 11. 



using double. In pasting bring the inside corners of outside 
squares together and place the middle square inside these two, 
with the ends of the handle between. 

MODEL VIII. STOVE. 

Use for this model three 
squares of Mack paper 6x6 
inches. 












-e- 














-o- 










1 II 


1 



Model VIII. Stove. 



Fig. 12. 



Fold and cut as indicated at Fig. 12 for body of the stove, 
making lines for grate with a red lead pencil. Indicate, with 
black pencil, the hinges and knobs on oven doors. 



CONSTRUCTION IN PAPER. 



29 



Cut and fold hearth as indicated at Fig. 13, showing 
hinges and knobs on doors. Bring Fig. 12 into shape and 



■6- 

5?" 




> 

> 








> 

> 
> 








> 

> 
> 








•>- 




loJf* 





Fig. 13. Fig. 14. Fig. 15. 

paste. Use Fig. 11 for the bottom of the stove, fastening it 
onto the inside of front and back of stove, so as not to inter- 
fere with the use of the oven. Place the hearth in position 
and fasten, then open front doors. Cut and fold the pipe 
as indicated at Fig. 15 and glue to the stove. 

MODEL IX. — TROLLEY CAR. 

Cut as indicated at Fig. 
16, cutting out for windows, 
or the windows may be 
indicated by pencil lines 
and not cut out. Cut the 
bottom of the car as indi- 
cated at Fig. 17. Use tooth- 
picks for axle and peas for 
hubs, making wheels from 
the piece cut away from 




DDDDDDD 



Model IX. 



I— pi — r 


III 




( 






) 




| 


1 




& 


AtV fi> J 


/ AAfb&JL 


u. 













yjjr 


xvt 


¥ 


J Cm-. 


















jlf 


/a 


f 


Vfrf- 








! 





Fig. 16. 



Fig. 17. 



30 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



Fig. 16, and the pole from the other waste piece, fastening 
it to the car as indicated in the drawing. 



1 

1 






1 
| 












T 

1 
1 






1 




L~\J 


<U4_oL- 


I 






3 

1 







(T^ 




1 






























. 


■ 






1 

I 



Fig. 18. 



Fig. 20. 



^ 



Fig. 19. 

Cut 



MODEL X. — BED. 

Two squares are needed for this model, using 
for the legs the pieces cut away from previous 
models. 



and fold the hody of the bed as indicated at Fig. 18, 
making it three squares in length 
and two in width. Fold the legs 
as indicated at Fig. 19 and glue 
body and legs to position. 

Cut Fig. 20 into halves, as 
indicated by full line, making the 
headboard four squares in length 
(before folding), and the foot- 
board three squares. Now fold 
both pieces across the width and 
use these doubled pieces for the 
head and footboard and glue to 
place. Both these pieces may be 
cut across the top, to any desired 

Model X. Bed. shape. 




CONSTRUCTION TN PAPER. 
MODEL XI. — WASHSTAND. 



31 



I 1 [ I 1 1 1 1 

: J 1 — ' I 1 



Fig. 21. 



Fig. 22. 



T 



Fig. 23. 





Model XI. Washstand. 



Three squares are needed for 
this model. 

For the body, fold and cut as 
indicated at Fig. 21. Bring laps 
into position and glue to place. 

Fold and cut two models as 
indicated at Fig. 22. Glue into 
shape, and stand the two oblong 
boxes thus formed on end inside 
the square box formed from Fig. 
21. Locate the points for the 
knobs and here place two round- 
head paper fasteners. Shoe but- 
tons may be used instead. Shape 
the back as indicated at Fig. 23 
and glue to the body of the wash- 
stand. 



32 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



^Z 



i 



■^ 



x /^ 



M 



f 



^ 



MODEL XII. — DRESSING TABLE. 

Four squares are needed for this model. 
Fold and cut the body as indicated at 
Fig. 21, and the two drawers at Fig. 22. 
X Glue to shape 

and place the 

oblong boxes 

horizontally 

inside the 

square box, 

using paper 

fasteners for 

knobs. 

For the 

back, fold as 

indicated at 

Fig. 24, and then turn one thickness down toward the front 
from point X. This will form a square on its diagonal. Cut 
away the middle portion of this square leaving about one-fourth 
of an inch around the edge. This forms the width of the 
frame. Inside this insert a square of tin foil to form the m irror. 

MODEL XIII. — GO CART. 

But one square is used for this. 
Fold and cut as indicated in Fig. 25. 





Fig. 24. 



Model XII. 
Dressing Table. 





i 








4 




























-&UU<t 








Fig. 25. 



Model XIII. Go Cart. 



CONSTRUCTION IN PAPER. 



33 



Turn up the squares forming the back and glue the laps 
into position. Crease the step into shape and add toothpick 
for axle, using peas for hubs. Save the four squares, cut away 
from one side, for the handle. Cut this through the middle, 
lengthwise. Fold each piece through the middle, lengthwise, 
join the two pieces, bend for the handle, and glue into posi- 
tion. Use the squares cut from the corners in making the 
wheels. 

MODEL XIV. — CEADLE. 

Two squares are needed to form the 
body of this model. Fold and cut two 
forms as indicated at Fig. 26. Glue to 



, 




Fig. 26. 



Model XIV. Cradle. 



shape and stand one, on end, inside the other one. This will 
form the hood. Variety may be given to the shape of the 
body of this model. For the rockers divide one six-inch 
square into four smaller ones, and on one of these trace a 
circle, using a two-inch tablet. Cut to line, fold through 
the middle, and cut. It will be necessary to cut away that 
portion of the rocker touching the floor in order to have the 
cradle stand upright. 



CONSTRUCTION BY MEASUREMENT. 



ADVANCED FIRST. 

Second School Year. 

After having worked out many lessons in paper construc- 
tion by folding, the pupil is led to pattern-making with the 
use of the ruler, and here the lap is introduced. As yet, 
however, we keep this troublesome feature of construction as 
large as possible, since it is in the execution of fine details 
that the child becomes discouraged. These models have been 
worked out by pupils in the advanced first year. By previous 
training they have become 
familiar with the use of 
the ruler and are able 
to draw lines to given 
lengths and lay out simple 
surface coverings. The 
forms, being made from 
drawing paper, are easily 
folded on the line, no 
scoring being necessary, 
as is the case when using 
bristol board. 

All patterns are based 
on the square, and are Fi s- *■ 

purposely made very simple in order to introduce decoration, 
using water colors or colored lead pencils. The squares vary 
in size from 1)4 to 2 inches. The rulers are marked in one 
inch and half -inch spaces. 

In Fig. 1 the squares are three inches across. The 
rulers are placed on the edge of the paper and the spaces 
marked here, with black pencil, as a finer dot may be made 
with the black than with a colored one. The cross lines are 
drawn with the colored pencil and the nine squares needed are 



















V 



CONSTRUCTION BY MEASUREMENT. 



35 



















MB 


tfy 







Fig. 2. 



now cut away. Cut away 
the triangles as indicated 
in the drawing and deco- 
rate with diagonal lines. 

In Fig. 2 the squares 
are two inches in size. 
Proceed as in Fig. 1 and 
decorate as in the drawing. 

In Fig. 3 the size of 
the square is one and one- 
half inches. Proceed as 
in Fig. 1. For decora- 
tion add the diagonal lines 
and at the points of inter- 
section cross with a line 
extending one-half inch 
in each direction. 



Vv 














^v y 











Fig. 3. 



36 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



Fig. 4 is, when completed, like Fig. 1, but differs in 
manner of development. Cut in on the heavy lines. Deco- 
rate as indicated in the drawing. 



ST7|\ 






/tayp 



Fig. 4. 



Fig. 5. Size of squares, 2 inches by 2 inches. Cut in 
on heavy lines. Suggestion for decoration is given in the 
drawing. 



*-?£-* *~7v* •"•£""• *~7x* 

\. T y' ^\. f / >w t z' ^v T s 0\ 
' %> y' ^v /* >. /•\ 



Fig. 5. 

Fig. 6. Size of squares, 3 inches by 3 inches. Cut in 
on heavy lines for the bottom, and the cover. Decorate as 
suggested in the drawing. 

Fig. 7. Size of squares, 2 inches by 2 inches. Cut in 
on heavy lines to form the cover and the bottom. Sugges- 
tion for decoration given in the drawing. 



CONSTRUCTION BY MEASUREMENT. 



37 





* * 



¥ * 



* 




* * 



* ¥ 



^t 



Fig 6. 



K /K 7F 7T\ 71 



X 





/\ 



> 




><-^ 



x-^e> 



1/ \U \L/ \U xl 




Fig. 7. 

When these models (VI. and VII.) are used for candy 
boxes, they are made more attractive by the addition of a 
ribbon band. 



FREE WEAVING. 

Series II 
ADVANCED FIRST GRADE. 

Second School Year. 

Having previously worked out Series I. , the pupils have 
acquired a deftness of hand which will enable them to take up 
these more difficult models. Pupils, to whom the work is 
new, often enter at the beginning of a school year, and it is 
always well to review the "ground forms" or foundation 
work given in Series I. Review also the book marker. 

In this series use book-cover paper in two contrasting 
colors, or in tint and shade of the same color. Have the 
paper cut into strips one-half inch wide. 

MODEL I. — PICTURE FEAME. 

This frame is but two strips in width, but at the end of 
the series it may again be introduced four or six strips wide. 

Fold four strips of each color through the middle across 
the width. Lay the light strips horizontally across the desk, 
with the open and closed ends alternating at the sides. With 
the dark strips proceed to weave under and over, leaving all 
ends long, i.e., do not draw up any ends. This will form a 
square with long ends on all sides as in Detail I. Now sepa- 
rate these squares so that four will come on each corner with 
a loose band between. The distance between each set of 
squares should be but little over three inches. The ends may 
now be drawn so that the closed end is nearly to the outside 
edge of the frame. 

It will now be observed that the light and dark strips are 
on opposite sides of the frame. Take twelve pieces of each 
color and fold crosswise through the middle. Weave these in 
and out the space between the corner squares, placing the dark 
on the side with the light strips and vice versa. Now tighten 




Detail I. Picture Frame. 



40 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



all the strips, being careful to not pull the opening for the 
picture out of square. Glue cardboard to the back of this 
frame, leaving an opening at the top into which the picture 
is to be slipped. An easel back may be provided, or a cord 
used for hanging. The back may be so glued on as to permit 
the hanging of the frame with the square on its diagonal. 




Detail II. Picture Frame 



FREE WEAVING. 



41 



Oblong frames may be made in the same manner by insert- 
ing more strips on the sides than across the top. 




Model I. Picture Frame. 



SQUARE AND OBLONG MATS. 

Mats of different sizes and shapes may be woven and util- 
ized in various ways. Either by using them for lamp-mats, 
etc. , or for mounts for calendars, thermometers, blotters, etc. 
For the square mats, have all paper strips of the same length. 

Difficulty will at first be experienced in having the pupils 
keep the strips from slipping out of position, while the work 



42 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 

is being started, but this is soon overcome, and as so little 
preparation of materials is required, this form of manual train- 
ing may be used for busy work. 

CORNUCOPIA. 

Weave a mat ten squares each way. Perforate two adja- 
cent edges. Bring the opposite corners together, and lace with 
narrow ribbon, finishing with a bow. 

Double cornucopias may be formed by weaving an oblong 
mat, twenty squares by ten, and bringing both lower corners 
up to the middle of the top edge; fasten in position. 

BLOTTER BACK. 

Weave an oblong mat ten squares long and four or six wide. 
Out an oblong piece of blotting paper, in size one-half inch 
shorter and one-half inch narrower than the woven mat, to 
which it should be glued. 

CALENDAR BACK. 

Weave a square mat six squares by six, and fasten the cal- 
endar to this, choosing such size as will leave a margin of one 
square all around the calendar. Oblong mats may be woven 
to fit oblong calendar pads. 

THERMOMETER BACK. 

Weave an oblong mat four squares wide and six squares 
long, using paper strips one-half inch wide. Fasten the ther- 
mometer to this back by sewing through the holes, and, if 
desired, a bow may be tied here. 

COVER FOR NEEDLE BOOK. 

Weave an oblong mat, making it eight one-half inch strips, 
or four one-inch strips wide, and twelve one-half inch, or six 
one-inch strips in length. Fold through the middle across the 
width. Cut the leaves from white flannel and have the edges 
notched. Open the cover, lay the leaves in position and per- 
forate in three places. Pass a narrow ribbon through these 
holes, bring both ends to the outside, and here form a bow. 



FREE WEAVING. 43 

COVER FOR MEMORANDUM BOOK. 

Weave an oblong mat, making it twelve squares in length 
and eight in width. 

Fold this through the middle, across the width to form the 
cover. 

Cut, for the leaves, oblong pieces of white paper, in width 
one-half inch narrower and in length one-half inch shorter than 
the oblong forming the cover. Fold these and place inside the 
cover. Xow perforate this book in two places, pass a narrow 
ribbon through these perforations, and tie. Attach a lead pen- 
cil to one end of the ribbon used for binding the back. All 
short pieces of lead pencils may be collected from time to time 
and saved for this purpose. 

BOXES. 

Many shapes and sizes may be given to these woven boxes, 
and. firmness, also, if a heavy quality of paper is used. The 
shapes are formed as in the models for more elementary work, 
in previous pages. The covers may be woven on, or else made 
separate and the loose ends fastened into the back edge of the 
box. When the box is large, it will be found much easier to 
construct it, if both the bottom and the cover are made sepa- 
rate. If the bottom is woven separately, it is fastened into 
place by passing the loose ends of the bottom edge of the piece 
forming the sides of the box into the edges of the mat forming 
the bottom. 

Handkerchief and glove boxes may be made very durable 
by fitting an inner box of heavy cardboard, or oak tag, and 
gluing the woven outside box to this one. The inner box may 
be painted, so as to harmonize with the colors of the outside. 



CONSTRUCTION IN CARDBOARD. 

Second Year. 
Third School Year. 

The following models may be constructed in cardboard, 
oak tag, or Essex bristol. The latter comes in a variety 
of artistic and pleasing colors, and the light weight is quite 
as inexpensive and much more attractive than oak tag. 
There is no saving in expense, but a great waste of the teach- 
er's time, if she attempts to cut the material for each lesson, 
to the size designated in the following directions. 

The material is usually ordered for a year's work, and of 
one size throughout. In all these models a saving will be 
effected if, placing the ruler along the top and bottom edge of 
the paper, the spaces for the vertical lines are dictated, these 
lines drawn, and the cardboard be now cut to the exact 
width required. 

JSTow locate on the edges of this piece the spaces for the 
horizontal lines, and after drawing these lines, cut the paper 
to the exact length. 

The teacher having placed the drawing on the board as 
she dictated to the class, now indicates the parts to be cut 
away, by using colored crayon; thus making the details less 
confusing. The pieces cut away will often be large enough 
to use for another model. 

Le Page's glue is used for joining all models constructed of 
any material heavier than paper. 

As the pupils come to see how folding boxes may be con- 
structed they become intensely interested, and specimens of 
all shapes and sizes are brought in, with the request, "May 
we make this ? " 

A quantity of oak tag may be kept where the pupils have 
free access to it, and scissors and glue conveniently near. 
For "busy work" nothing can be better than to encourage 



CONSTRUCTION IN CARDBOARD. 



45 



the developing of any box brought in, always insisting that 
the drawing be made by measurement, and not traced. For 
the pupils who cannot work unaided, the teacher should 
mount, on a large sheet of heavy cardboard, working draw- 
ings of different models, and also fasten to this, by a piece of 
cord, two models of each drawing; glue one to shape, and 
leave the other flat. Hang these sufficiently low, so the 
pupils can handle the models, and study the drawing. 

MODEL I. BUTTON BOX. 

Material. — Essex bristol, six inches square. Draw the diag- 
onal lines. Place a dot on each line, one inch from the point 
of intersection. Draw lines connecting these dots. The 

square thus formed be- 
comes the bottom of 
the box. To form the 
sides of the box, find 
the middle of the up- 
per edge; from this 
point measure one and 
one-half inches to the 
right and left, and here 
place a dot, marking 
these points A and B, 
as in Fig. 1. Draw lines 
from these points to the corresponding corners of the inner 
square. Repeat this drawing on the other three sides. To form 
the laps, measure on the upper edge, three-eighths of an inch 
from the points marked A and B, and from the corresponding 
corners of the inner square, measure three-quarters of an inch 
on the diagonal lines. Connect these points with opposite 
ones. As laps are needed on two sides only, lines similar to 
these are drawn on the opposite side of the box. 

Now cut to line, and cut off the upper corners of the lap. 
This may be done free hand, or by measuring down three- 




Model I. Button Box. 



46 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



eighths of an inch, and drawing lines to A and B. Cut to 
these lines. Before folding, it will be necessary to score all 
lines forming edges. This is done by using the sharp point 
of the scissors, a knife or a pin. 




Fig. i. 
MODEL II. TENT. 

Material, — Oak tag; size, 12 in. x 12 in. 

Place the tag board with two edges parallel to the edge of 
the desk. 

Placing the ruler along the upper edge of the paper, meas- 
ure to the right one and one-quarter inches, and here place a 
dot, marking this point A, as in Fig. 2. Eepeat this at the 
lower edge, and draw lines connecting these two dots. From 
each of these dots measure to the right four inches, and again 
draw connecting lines. Locate point B. From the ends of 
this line, measure two and one-half inches to the right, draw 




<\. 




r>/^ 



-o 



/s 



CM>^ 



•vi> 



J 




Fig. 



48 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 




Model II. Tent. 

connecting line, and cut to this line. Lay aside the piece cut 
away and place the drawing on the desk in the same position 
as before. From the upper left corner, measure down three- 
fourths of an inch, place a dot and draw a line from this dot 
to A. From the lower left corner measure up three-fourths of 
an inch and draw a line from this point down to the end of the 
line opposite point A. Cut to these lines. From the upper 
right corner, measure down one and one-fourth inches, place 
a dot, and draw a line from this dot to point B. From the 
lower right corner, measure up one and one-fourth inches, 
place a dot, and draw a line to end of the line opposite point 
B. Cut to these lines. Locate points C, D, E and F. From 
points A and B, measure down five and three-fourths inches 
and draw a line across. Now draw a line from the ends of this 
line to points C, D, E and F. Cut to these lines and score all 



CONSTRUCTION IN CARDBOARD. 



49 



remaining lines. Fold for the body of the tent. For the floor 
of the tent use the piece cut away, and place it with its long 
edges parallel with the front edge of the desk. From the upper 
left corner, measure one-half inch to the right, and place a dot. 
Eepeat this at the lower left corner and draw a line across. 




Fig. 2. 
From the ends of this line, measure to the right five and three- 
fourths inches, and draw a line across. See Fig. o. From 
the ends of this line, locate points one-half inch to the right and 
draw a line across. Cut to this line. Placing the drawing on 
the desk in the same position as before, measure down four 
inches from the upper right and upper left corners, place dots 
and draw a line across. Cut to this line. Score all remaining 
lines, fold, and glue into position. 

MODEL III. COIN BAG. 

Material. — Oak tag; size, 7 in. x 7 in. 

Place the paper with its short edges parallel with the front 
edge of the desk. From the upper and lower left corners 
measure to the right one inch, place dots and draw a line 
across. See Fig. 4. From the ends of this line measure two 
inches to the right and draw a line across. Measure one and one- 
half inches to the right from the ends of this line, draw a line 



50 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 




^ 2_ 




J 



Model III. Coin Bag. 



Fig. 4. 

across and cut to this line. From the 
two upper corners measure down one 
and one-half inches, place dots and draw 
a line across. Cut away the two corner 
oblongs thus formed, lay a two-inch 
semi-circular tablet with its straight 
edge coinciding with line A, and trace 
around the curved edge, using a sharp 
lead pencil. Cut to this curved line. 
From the two upper outside corners 
measure down four inches and draw a 
line across. From the ends of this line 
measure down one inch, draw a line 
across and cut to this line. Cut away 



CONSTRUCTION TN CARDBOARD. 



51 



the square formed in lower left corner and the oblong formed 
in lower right. Locate points 1, 2, 3, -A, 5, 6. From point 1 
measure down one-fourth inch, draw a line to the inner upper 
corner and cut to this line. From points 3 and 4 measure up 
one-fourth inch, draw lines down to the inner corner and cut 
to these lines. From point 2 measure down three-eighths of 
an inch, draw a line up to the inner corner and cut to this line. 
Measure one-eighth of an inch to the right of point 5 and to 
the left of point 6. Draw lines to the upper corners, cut to 
these lines, score all remaining lines, fold and glue into shape. 




Model IV. Card Case. 
MODEL IT. CARD CASE. 

Material. — Essex bristol; size, 11 in. x 8 in. 

Place the paper with its long edges parallel with the edge 
of the desk. Measure down one inch from the upper right 
and upper left corners, and here place dots on the edge of the 
paper. Draw a line connecting these dots. See Fig. 5. From 
both ends of this line, measure down five inches, place dots, and 
draw connecting line. Measure down one inch from both ends 
of this line, place dots, draw connecting line, and cut to this line. 

From the upper and lower left corners, measure to the 
right two inches, place dots, and draw connecting line. Three 
inches to the right of this line, draw another line, and again 



52 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



a second line, at the same distance, three inches. Locate points 
two inches to the right of the last line, draw connecting line, 




Fig. 5. 



CARDBOARD CONSTRUCTION. 



53 



QB 



y~- 



■*- 






* 



-X- 



■l 



> 



Fig. 6. 



and cut to this line. 
Xow cut away, from 
both sides, the oblongs 
three inches by one 
inch. There are now 
four projecting pieces, 
size, two inches by one 
inch. 

Measure in one-half 
inch on each outside 
corner of all four, and 
draw lines to the other 
corners, as shown in 
the drawing. Cut to 
these lines, score all 
remaining lines, fold, 
and glue to position. 

MODEL V. — LETTEE 
CASE. 

Material. — Essex 
bristol; size, 12 in. x 5 
in. Place the paper 
with its long edge par- 
allel with the edge of 
the desk. From the 
upper left and upper 
right corner measure 
down three inches and 
draw a line across. 
From both ends of this 
line measure down one 
inch, draw a line 
across, and cut to this 
line. From the upper 



54 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



and lower left corners measure one inch to the right and 
draw a line across. See Fig. 6. Four inches to the right of 
this line draw another one. Again, one inch to the right of 
this one, and now four inches to the right of this last line. 
Again measure one inch to the right, draw a line, and cut to 
this line. From the lower edge cut up as indicated by the 
heavy lines in the drawing. 




Model V. Letter Case. 

Find the middle of the upper edge of each four-inch 
space, and place a dot. Place a one-inch semi-circular tablet 
with the middle of its straight edge at this dot. Using a 
sharp pointed pencil, trace around this tablet. Out to this 
circular line. Score all remaining lines, fold and glue to 
position. 

MODEL VI. — CAKD HOLDER. 

Material. — Essex bristol; size, 10 in. x6 in. Place the 
paper with its short edge parallel with the edge of the desk. 
From the upper and lower left corners, measure to the right 
one and one-quarter inches, and draw a line across. See Fig. 7. 
Three inches to the right of this line draw another one, and 
again one and one-fourth inches to the right of this last line, 
draw another one, and cut to this line. From the upper cor- 



CARDBOARD CONSTRUCTION. 



55 



ners measure down three inches and draw a light line across. 
Place another line two and three-fourths inches below this 
line, and again three inches lower down draw another one. 
Cut to this last line. Cut the oblong spaces away from the 
upper corners. Measure down one and one-half inches from 
the upper corners of the projecting piece, and here place 



* — ? 




6 



Fig. 7. 



56 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



dots. Find the middle of 
its upper edge, and from 
here draw lines to the 
dots just located, and cut 
to these lines. From the 
outside corners A and B, 
draw lines to C and D. 
Cut to these lines. Score 
all remaining lines, ex 
cepting the light one 
crossing the back of the 
case. Perforate the hole 
for hanging, fold and 
glue. 

MODEL VII. PHOTO- 

GEAPH HOLDER. 

Material. — Bristol 

board; size, 11 in. x 10 in. 

Lay the paper with its 

long edges parallel with 

the edge of the desk. 

From the upper and lower left corners, measure to the right 

two and one-half inches, and draw a line. See Fig. 8. Five 

inches to the right of this line draw another; measure again 

two inches and one-half to the right, draw a line and cut to it. 

From the upper corners, measure down four inches, and 

draw a line across. 

Two inches and one-half below this draw another line, and 
again, two and one-half inches, another one. Cut to this line. 
Measure, for one-quarter inch lap, to the left of line C-E, and 
to the right of line D-F. Cut to these lines, and shape the 
lap as indicated on drawing. 

From the upper corners, measure down one and one-half 
inches, and place dots on the edges of the paper. From these 




Model VI. Card Holder. 



CARDBOARD CONSTRUCTION. 57 

dots, draw lines to points A and B, and cut to these lines. 
Find the middle of the upper edge (the five-inch space), and 
here form the semi-circnlar opening. Repeat this at the lower 
edge. Score all remaining lines, fold, and glue to position. 




Model VII. Photograph Holder. 
MODEL VIII. WALL LETTER CASE. 

Material. — Essex bristol; size, 12 in. x 7 in. 

Place the paper with its long edge parallel with the edge 
of the desk. Measure in on top and bottom edge, four inches, 
and draw a line across. See Fig. 9. Form another space 
of one and one-half inches, another of four inches, and still 
another of one and one-half inches in width. One-quarter 
inch to the right of this last line, draw another one, and cut 
to this line. From the upper corners, measure down one and 
one-half inches on the edge of the paper, and draw a line 
across. Three inches below this line draw another one, and 
again, one and one-half inches, another one. Cut to this line. 

Out away the oblongs in the upper corner, leaving the pro- 
jecting piece as indicated. Find the middle of this upper 



58 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



edge, and draw lines from this point to a point one-half inch 
below each corner. Cut to these lines. 

From points A and B, measure down one-quarter inch, 
draw line and cut for laps. Shape as indicated. Score all 
remaining lines, except the line across the back. Fold to posi- 
tion and glue. Perforate the hole for hanging. 




Fig. 8. 
MODEL IX. — EGG BOX. 

Material. — Essex bristol; two pieces, size, 11 in. x 9 in. 

Lay the paper with its long edge parallel with the edge of 
the desk. From the upper corners measure down two inches 
and draw a line across. Place another line four inches below 



£- 



-x — 

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* 



,£ 



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V- 



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Fig. 9. 



V 



60 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



this and still another one two inches below. Cut to this line. 
Two inches to the right of the left edge draw a line, another 
one four inches, and still another one two inches. Cut to 
this line. Draw the diagonals of the corner squares. Cut 
out the triangles as indicated. The remaining ones form the 
laps. See Fig. 10. 




Model VIII. Wall Letter Case. 



Eepeat this drawing on the second piece. Form the par- 
titions from the piece cut away, making a lap one-half inch 
wide, and fitting as indicated by the heavy lines in Figs. 12 
and 13, cutting in here to the depth of one inch. Locate 
the semi-circular openings in the cover as indicated at Fig. 
11. Score all remaining lines, fold, glue into position, and 
then add the partitions. 



y 



X. 



¥ 



*- 2j" ? 






\ 



i 



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i 



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Fig. 11. 



62 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 




Model IX. Egg Box. 



r 




-v 



Fig. 12. 




Fig. 13. 



REED WEAVING. 

Second Year. 
Third School Year. 
This line of manual work follows the weaving with paper 
strips, and is here introduced into the second grade (third 
school year). The course consists of the weaving of mats, 
trays, baskets of various shapes and sizes, and a complete set 
of doll's furniture, the making of which is interesting to boys 
and girls alike. 

/ The educational value of this form of manual training can 
not be overestimated. First, it is pleasing to the child, and 
thus the desire to create is stimulated and the inventive facul- 
ties cultivated. Symmetry, form and proportion are taught, 
and both hand and eye trained to accuracy, while the observ- 
ing faculties are aroused to notice designs and shapes in various 
manufactured articles. 

Tools.— Scissors, knife, 1 pair flat pliers, 1 small hammer, 

1 package one-inch Xo. 18 brads, 1 four-inch scratch awl, and 
a small iron vise, which, while not absolutely necessary, will 
prove of great convenience in holding the work for fastening. 

Materials.— Round reed, Nos. 2, 3 and 4; split reed, Nos. 
2, 3, 4, 6; flat and oval pith, sizes, 5, 5 l / 2 and 6}^, fine cane 
(for binding) , light linen cord and raphia. 

LESSON I. FOUNDATION WOEK WITH CORD. 

As it is difficult for children to manage the weaving, 
when starting with round reed, the first lesson is given with 
cord as a weaving strand. For the foundation rays, use No. 

2 reed. Give each pupil eight pieces seven inches long, one 
piece four inches long, and two yards of cord. Divide the 
strands into fours, and cross at right angles, placing the ones 



64 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 




passing from left to right on top the other four, being careful 
to cross at centers, and hold the work firmly between the thumb 
and fore finger of the left hand. 




Designs for a Border. No. 1. 



REED WEAVING. 



65 



Hold the cord as a weaver in the right hand, leaving a free 
end the length of the extended arms. Pass this weaver over 
the four rays on the left (No. 1), then under the upper four 
(No. 2), over No. 3, under No. 4, and now over the cord. 
At this stage, insert the four-inch strand of reed, laying it 
alongside the cord so as to give firmness to this ray, which we 
treat as four. Xow proceed under and over, around and around 
the mat, care being taken to hold the weaver firmly between 
the thumb and fore finger of right hand, and close up to the 
ray around which the cord is passing. Use the fingers of the 
left hand to turn the work and at the same time to press down 
the weaver between the rays. 

Have the child first master this simple form of weaving 
with undivided rays before the division into twos is made. 

One great advantage in starting with cord is that the work 
may be unwound and the material used over and over again 
until the pupil has learned to start his own work and weave 
through this step. 




Circular Mat. Fig. 1. 



66 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



MODEL II. SMALL CIKCULAR MAT. 

Materials. — Eight strands round reed (No. 2) , seven inches 
long, and one strand four inches long, for foundations; one 
long strand (No. 2 reed) for weaving. 

Before making this model, it will be necessary to soak the 
reed in water (warm preferred), for about two hours. This 
renders it as pliable as cord. 

Start as in Fig. 1, inserting the short strand beside the 
projecting end of the weaving strand. Weave under four and 
over four twice around, then proceed to divide the rays into 
twos, beginning the division just after passing the inserted 
strand, and weave over two and under two. Be careful to keep 
equal space between the foundation rays (so as to secure sym- 
metrical work), and also to keep the weaving thread down 
close to the center with the fingers of the left hand, and, by 
constantly turning the work, follow closely the weaving thread, 
which is to be held in the right hand close to the work. It is 
very necessary to emphasize these points. After weaving a 
mat three inches in diameter, cut the ends of the foundation 
rays to even lengths, and insert the scratch awl alongside each 
foundation ray, and into the opening thus secured, pass the 




Division of rays into ones. Fig. 2. 



REED WEAVING. 



67 



ends, by twos, of the foundation rays; this secures the work, 
and makes a finish by forming loops. Flatten the mat before 
allowing to dry. 

MODEL III. — TRAY. 

Materials. — Round reed No. 2; eight pieces twelve inches 
and one piece seven inches long for foundation rays ; two long 
strands for weavers. 

When weaving with one strand it is necessary to have an 
uneven number of rays for the foundation. After starting 
the center, as in Lesson I., the seven-inch piece is inserted 
alongside the extended end of the weaving strand, and the 
weaving proceeds under four, over four, three times around. 
Then make the division by twos. (See Fig. 2). Just 
after passing the inserted strand and keeping the work flat, 
weave four times around. Now, while holding the work in 
both hands, press the thumbs outward and into the center of 
the mat, keeping the end of the weaving strand toward the 
right, and the ends of the rays away from the body ; gradu- 
ally bend them inward toward center of the bottom, — thus 
obtaining the desired shape. It is well to keep the first 
attempts at "shaping" quite shallow. 

From this point divide the rays into ones (see Fig. 2), and 
here cut away the end of weaving strand left extended at 
point of insertion of the seven-inch piece; this is necessary 
if an uneven number of rays is required. 




Border II. 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



When the end of the first weaver is reached the second 
one may be spliced on by laying the end of the new weaving 
strand alongside the end of the first. 

Do not place the ends of weavers down by the side of the 
foundation rays, until the work is complete, when the final 
end may be passed down, in order to close the work. Finish 
with border II. 

BORDER II. 

After trimming the ends of the rays to even lengths — 
(about three inches), pass the end of each standing strand 
behind the first one to the left, in front of the second one, 
and down by the side of this one. It may be slipped down 
beside the second one before passing in front of it, if pre- 
ferred. 




MODEL IV. SMALL BASKET. 

Materials. — Round reed, Nos. 2 and 3 ; three long strands 
No. 2 reed for weavers; eight pieces fourteen, and one piece 
eight inches long (No. 3 reed), for foundation. 

After starting as in Lesson I., — and making division of 
twos, as in Model II., weave over two and under two until the 
bottom is two and one-half inches in diameter. 

Now turn up the sides of the basket sharply and continue 
to weave to end of strand. Finish with border I. As it is 
desirable to have the weaving strands soft and pliable, a pail 
of warm water should be standing in the class-room and the 
weaving strands placed in this until needed. 



REED WEAVING. 



69 



In all these simple lessons the shaping is done entirely by 
the hand, thus training the hand to deftness and exactness, 
and the eye to symmetry and proportion. 




5" H- 

BORDER III. 

Pass ray No. 1 behind Nos. 3 and 4 and down by the side 
of No. 5. Pass No. 2 behind Nos. 3 and 4 and down by the 
side of No. G — and continue until the last ray is passed down. 




h 5" if 3 A 

BORDER IV. 

Take any standing ray as No. 1, pass it behind No. 2, in 
front of No. 3 and then down into the basket. Now pass 
No. 2 behind No. 3, in front of No. 4, and down into the 
basket, leaving these two loops open in order to receive the 
last two ends. Press the other loops down flat, and when 
completed trim the ends to even lengths, leaving about one 
inch in length inside the basket. Length of spoke for 
border, four inches. 



70 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 




BORDER V. 

Take a#y ray as No. 1, pass it behind No. 2 and No. 3, in 
front of Nos. 4 and 5, and then down inside the basket. 
Then pass No. 2 behind Nos. 3 and 4, in front of Nos. 5 and 
6, and down inside the basket. Continue to the end, weaving 
the last two into the loops formed by Nos. 1 and 2. Length 
of spoke for border, six inches. 

BORDER VI. 

Length of rays needed for this border, nine inches. 
Place ray No. 1 behind No. 2, and bring the end down under 
the thumb of the left hand. Then lay No. 2 behind No. 3. 




*- *t 3 s. / 



Border VI. Detail No. 1. 



REED WEAVING. 



71 



Now go back to No. 1 and pass it before No. 3, and behind 
No. 4, bringing the end down in front of the basket, and hold 
it here, while laying No. 3 (which is the first one standing) 




*■ + 



1 l 



Border VI. Detail No. 2. 




J % 6~ H 3 2 / 



Border VI. Detail No. 3. 



72 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



down alongside of No. 1. Now take No. 2 and pass it in 
front of No. 4 and behind No. 5, and lay No. 4 (still stand- 
ing) behind No. 5, and down beside No. 2. It will now be 
observed that the ends of the reeds are forming sets of twos. 
Now begin with the first pair, and take the longer of the two 
reeds, and pass it in front of No. 5 and belli nd No. 6, and 
down in front ; then turn No. 5 down behind No. 6 and 
alongside the end just turned down. Continue in this man- 
ner until but one end is standing, when we are ready to close 
the border. Now take the longer one of the last two and 
place it in front of No. 1 (which was the first spoke used), 
and bring the end out in front under No. 2. Take the longer 
end of the set of twos and place it in front of No. 2, and 
bring this end out in front under No. 3. The ends may 
now be cut off in front, or woven back and cut off on the 
inside of the basket. 




/ % 3 H- d- to 



Border VI. Detail No. 4. 



USE OF TWO WEAVERS. 

The entire depth of the sides of a basket may be woven with 
two weavers^ or this style may be used at the bottom of the 
basket, where the spokes are turned up. It also adds to the 
appearance of the basket if two or three rows, using two 
weavers, are inserted just after braided rush or straw has been 
used. 

To work with two weavers, one end of each is inserted 
behind two successive rays, or spokes, as at A, then each, in 



REED WEAVING 



73 




Use of Two Weavers. 



turn, is brought in front of one and behind the next one, as 
indicated in the drawing. 




Use of Three Weavers. 



USE OF THREE WEAVERS. 

Insert three single weavers, behind three successive spokes, 
as at A and B, and place each, in turn, in front of the next 
two rays, and behind the third. This style of weaving is used 
especially to strengthen the work at the point of turning up 
for the sides, where it not only hides the ends of any additional 
rays added at this point, but it strengthens the basket. 



74 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 




Ill: SI! I!! 




Double Weaving. 
DOUBLE WEAVING. 

An effective style of weaving may be worked by using an 
even number of rays, and passing, with a single weaving strand, 
under one, over one, two or three times around, and then alter- 
nate for another two or three rows. This alternation must 
always be made on the under side, and is effected by passing 
under two rays, and then on, over one and under one. 

This is most effective when the spokes are double or treble, 
according to the number of rows used before the change is 
made. If, in order to make the bottom of the basket of suffi- 
cient strength and size, a division of ones has been made, the 
extra ray (for additional spokes) may be added at the point 




Triple Weaving. 




Flower Basket. 



76 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 

of turning up the rays for the sides, and here working in three 
rows of triple weaving (three weavers), and then proceed with 
the single weaver two or three times around. 

FLOWER BASKET. 

For the foundation use No. 4 reed, eight strands twenty- 
seven and one strand fourteen inches in length. Use No. 2 
reed for the weavers. Begin the division of twos immediately 
after fastening the center. As the lower part of this basket is 
not more than one inch in diameter at the base, it is necessary 
to begin to form this part by turning back the rays at the be- 
ginning of the weaving. When the elongated part is the desired 
length, the division of ones is made, and after weaving but Once 
around, an extra spoke is inserted alongside each single one. 
This is done so as to give solidity to the basket, and also to 
make a heavier border than is possible with single spokes. 
The sides are now turned outward and then upward. When 
the basket is the desired size, the ends of the spokes should be 
dampened and then turned at right angles with the basket, 
and here finish with border No. 3. This produces a flat finish 
to the border. The handle is formed by inserting a piece of 
No. 4 reed into the sides of the basket, and upon this, twisting 
back and forth, a length of No. 2 reed, until the foundation 
is hidden and a rope-like appearance is given to the handle. 



CONSTRUCTION IN CARDBOARD. 



THIRD YEAR. 

Fourth School Year. 
MODEL I. BILL HOLDER. 

Material. — Essex bristol; size, 12 in. x 9 in. 

Place the paper with its long edges parallel with the edge 

of the desk. Lay off the vertical lines, forming the spaces, 

one-qnarter inch, two inches, three and one-half inches, two 

inches and three and one-half inches. Cut to the last line. 

From the upper cor- 
ners, measure down 
two and one -half 
inches, draw a line, 
and from here meas- 
ure down three and 
one-half inches, 
again draw a line, 
and from here meas- 
ure two inches, and, 
again, one - quarter 
inch, draw lines and 
cut to the last one. 
See Fig. 1. 

From points A 
and B measure one- 
half inch, place dots 
and draw lines to 
points C and D, as 
shown in the draw- 
Modei i. Bin Holder. mg. Out away all 




78 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



waste across the top. Xow locate points E and F, and draw 
in the lines forming the laps. Score all lines, excepting the 
line C-D. Fold into shape and glue. 




Fig. 1. 



CONSTRUCTION IN CARDBOARD. 



79 



MODEL II. — COMB CASE. 

Material. — Essex bristol ; size 8 in. x 8 in. 

From the upper left corner proceed to lay off the vertical 
spaces, two, three and one-half, and two inches wide. See 
Fig. 2. From the two upper corners measure down and lay 
off the horizontal spaces two, two, one, and two and one- 
fourth inches wide. Cut to the last line. Cut the squares 
away from the upper corners. Measuring in one inch and 
down one-half inch, draw lines and cut off the corners of the 
projecting piece, as shown in the drawings. From points A 
and B measure out one inch, place dots, and draw lines from 
these dots to the upper corners. Cut to these lines. From 




Fig. 2. 



80 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



points A and B lay out the one-qnarter-inch laps. Cut tv 
these lines and shape as indicated. Score all lines excepting 
the one across the back. Fold into shape and glue. 




Model II. Comb Case. 
MODEL III. — CORNER BRACKET. 

Material. 




Model III. Corner Bracket. 



Essex bris- 
tol; size, 11 in. x 7 in. 

Place the paper with 
its short edge parallel 
with the edge of the desk. 
Find the middle of the 
upper and lower edges 
and draw a line across. 
Measure three inches 
down from the upper cor- 
ner and draw a line across. 
From the point of inter- 
section of the two lines 
measure three inches to 



82 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



the right and left, place dots, and draw lines from these dots 
to point A. See Fig. 3. Cut to these lines and cut in on 
line A-B. From B measure down six inches, place a dot, and 
draw lines from this dot to the ends of line C-D. Score the 
remaining lines and score through the center line. Measure 
one inch down from D and up from E. Locate dots and cut 
the curve from these points. 

MODEL IV. — CANDY BOX. 

Material. — Essex bristol ; size, 12 in. x 8 in. 

Place the paper with its short edge parallel with the edge 
of the desk. From the upper corners measure down and lay 
off the horizontal spaces, viz. : three, one and one-half, three, 
one and one-fourth, and one and one-fourth inches each. 
Cut to the last line. See Fig. 4. Lay off the vertical spaces, 
one and one-half, four, and one and one-half inches each. 
Locate the middle of the upper edge, and cut the semi-circular 
opening. Bisect the lines A-B and C-D and from the point of 
bisection measure out one inch, and from these points draw 
lines to A, B, C and D. Cut to these lines. Cut away the 
oblongs from the lower corners. Round the corners of the pro- 




Model IV. Candy Box. 



CONSTRUCTION IN CARDBOARD. 



83 



jecting piece. Score all remaining lines and fold to place. 
This box may be glued to shape if preferred. 



r 




Fig. 4. 



84 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



MODEL V. — FOLDING BOX. 

Material. — Essex bristol ; size, 13 in. x 8 in. 
• From the upper corners lay out the horizontal spaces, viz. : 
two and one-half inches, one inch, two and one-half inches 
and one inch each. See Fig. 5. From the upper left corner 
measure off the vertical spaces, viz. : two and one-half, three 
and one-half, two and one-half, three and one-half and one- 
half inch each. Cut away all waste, leaving the projecting 



L— I 



>-j*L 












> 




1^1 



-jbrld^. _ v ^_ 



S 



Fig. 5. 



CONSTRUCTION IN CARDBOARD. 



85 




Model V. Folding Box. 



piece at the bottom. 
This forms the cover 
and the tongue (or 
the piece to slip in- 
side the edge of the 
box). The piece pro- 
jecting at the right 
forms the lap. 

Cut in on all heavy 
lines, as indicated by 
the drawing, and fold 
and crease on all 
dotted lines. Now 
bring the box into 
shape as shown in the 
sketch. Place glue 



on the one-half inch lap and fasten. 

MODEL VI. — LUNCH BOX. 

Material. — Essex bristol ; size, 9 in. x 3 in. 

From the upper corners measure down and draw lines for 
the horizontal spaces, viz. : two, three, and two inches each. 
Cut to the line drawn last. See Fig. 6. From the upper 
left corner lay off the vertical spaces, viz. : one and one-half, 
two, one and one-half, one-half and one inch each. Cut to 
the line drawn last. From points A and B measure up one 
and one-half inches, place 
dots, draw line across and 
cut to this line. Cut in 
on the lines A-X and B-X. 
Repeat this on opposite 
side at points C and D. 

Cut in to form the laps 
on the cover, making this 
lap one-half inch wide, 




Model VI. Lunch Box. 



86 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



with a projecting tongue of one inch (pointed at the end). 
Fold into shape, cut the openings in the front edge of the 
box and pass the tongue through this. Glue into shape. 



7v 






^ 



I 



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H 



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Fig. 6. 



CONSTRUCTION IN CARDBOARD. 



87 



MODEL VII. — HAT BOX. 

Material. — Manilla paper; size, 6 in. x 6 in. 

Laying the rulers along the edge of the paper, place dots at 
every one and one-half inch space. See Fig. 7. From these dots 
draw slanting connecting lines to the right and left. Draw these 
in either as dotted or light lines. Now make heavy all lines 
reaching from the outside edge to the first point of intersec- 
tion, and cut to these lines, as shown in the drawing. Cut in 
on the diagonal lines at points A, B, and D. The triangles 
thus formed are used for laps. The square touched on the 



b»'^ 




Fig. 7. 



88 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 




corners by these triangles 
forms the bottom of the 
box. Crease on the lines 
around this square and 
turn the paper up to form 
the sides of the box. Now 
crease arid fold over for 
the covers. An opening 
is made in two adjacent 
corners and through these 

Model VII. Hat Box. the pomtecl enc j f the 

tongue is passed. This model requires no gluing. 

MODEL VIII. TABOURETTE I. 

Material. — Strawboard; size, 10 in. x 8 in. 

From the upper and lower left corners measure off the 
vertical spaces (two inches each), and draw lines across; now 
add the one-half-inch space for the lap and cut to this line. 

From the upper corners measure down one-half inch 
and draw a line across; this space forms the top lap. From 
this line measure down three inches, draw a line across and 
cut to this line. From the top edge measure down one and 
one-half inches and draw a light line across. This line is 
crossed by the vertical lines. Measure one inch to the right 




<'A> 



Fig. 8. 



CONSTRUCTION IN CARDBOARD. 



89 



and left of the point of intersection and here place a dot. 
With a compass describe a circle one-half inch in diameter, 
using the dot as a center. From the lower left corner meas- 
ure in one-half inch and 
place a dot. Measure one- 
half inch to the right and 
left of the lower ends of 
the vertical lines and here 
place dots. From these 
dots draw lines to the 
center of the correspond- 
ing circles and cut to 
these lines, and then cut 
out the remainder of the 
circle. Score all vertical 
lines, and score and turn 
to a right angle the one- 
half-inch space, first cutting in on the heavy lines. Glue to 
shape. 

From the waste piece cut a square four inches by four 
inches. Draw a line one inch in from all edges. This line 




Model VIII. Tabourette I. 




Model IX. Kitchen Table. 



90 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



indicates the position of the framework. Glue the four-inch 
square to the top of the framework. 

MODEL IX. — KITCHEN TABLE. 

Material. — Straw board; size, 16 in. x 8 in. 

From the upper and lower left corners measure off the 
vertical spaces, three, four, three 
and four inches, and again one- 
half inch. See Fig. 9. Draw 
lines across, and cut to the last 
line. From the upper corners 
measure down one-half inch and 
draw a line across. Cut in on the 
heavy lines above this horizontal 
one. From this line measure 
down three and one-half inches 
and draw a line across. Cut to 
this line. 

From the horizontal line meas- 
ure down one-half inch and draw 
a line across. Locate points A, 
B, C and D. Measure one-half 
inch to the right and left of these 
points, and repeat this at the 
lower ends of the vertical lines. 
Draw lines connecting these dots, 
and cut to these lines. 

Score all vertical lines, and the 
remaining horizontal line. Glue 
to shape. From the waste piece 
cut the top of the table, size five 
inches by four inches. Draw a 
line one-half inch in from all 
edges, and glue this piece to the 
foundation. Fig. 9 




CONSTRUCTION IN CARDBOARD. 



91 



MODEL X. TABOURETTE II. 

Material. — Essex bristol ; size, 8 in. x 8 in. 
From the upper corners measure down one-half inch and 
draw a line across. From this line measure down three inches, 
draw a line across and cut to this line. See Fig. 10. 

From the upper and lower left corners measure to the 
right for the vertical spaces of one and one-half inch each, 
and the one space one-quarter inch wide. Draw lines and cut 

to the last line. From 
the horizontal line 
measure down one inch 
and draw a line across. 
Locate points A, B, C 
and D. 

Measure three- 
fourths inch to the 
right and left of these 
points and here place 
a dot. 

From the lower left 
corner measure to the 





Fig. 10, 



92 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



right one-quarter inch and also measure one-quarter inch to 
the right and left of the lower end of each vertical line and 
place dots! 

Draw lines from these dots to the dots at points 1, 2 9 3 
and 4. 

Find the middle of these lines and draw a compound 
curve. Cut to these curved lines. Score all vertical lines, 
and also the line forming the edge of the top lap. Glue to 
shape. From the waste piece cut a circular top, four inches 
in diameter, and glue it to the framework. 




Model X. Tabourette II. 
MODEL XI. TABOURETTE III. 

Material. — Essex bristol; size, 10 in. x 8 in. 

From the upper corners measure down one-half inch and 
draw a line across. From this line measure down two and 
one-half inches, draw a line across and cut to this line. From 
the upper and lower left corners locate dots for the vertical 
lines one and one-half inch apart, and one space one-quarter 
inch, to form the lap. Draw lines connecting these dots, and 
cut to the last line. From the horizontal line measure down 
three-quarters of an inch and draw a light line across. Locate 



CONSTRUCTION IN CARDBOARD. 



93 



points A, B, C, D, E and F. Measure three-quarters of an 
inch to the right and left of these points and place a dot. 
From the lower left corner measure to the right three-eighths 
of an inch, and the same from the lower ends of the vertical 
lines. 

Draw freehand curves in one 
of the vertical spaces as indi- 
cated in Fig. 11. Cut to this 
curve. Score all vertical lines. 
Place the section containing: 
the curves over each of the 
other sections, and trace around 
the curved lines, thus forming 
the six legs. Glue to shape. 

For the top use the waste 
piece, and on this describe a 
hexagon on the given base, one 
and one-half inches. Take the 
line A-B, one and one-half 
inches in length. With a 
radius equal to the length of 
A-B, describe arcs, using the 
ends of the line as centers. 





Fig. 12. 



Fig. 11. 



94 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



The arcs cut each other at point C. With C as center, and 
the same radius, describe a circle. Beginning at B, set off 
this space, around the circumference of the circle. Draw 
lines connecting these points, as in Fig. 12. 



MODEL XII. — CHAIR. 

Material. — Essex bristol; size, 11 in. x 8 in. 
From the upper corners measure down one-half inch and 
draw a line across. From this line measure down three- 
eighths inch and draw a line 
across; again, from the same 
line, measure down two and 
one-half inches, draw a line, 
and cut to this line. 

From the upper and 
lower left corners, measure 
to the right three-eighths of 
an inch, locate points A, B, 
and D. From these points 
measure three-eighths of an 
inch to the right and left, 
and here place dots. 
Model xi. Tabourette in. From the lower ends of 

the vertical lines measure the same distance, place dots and 
draw lines connecting these dots to the dots above. Cut out 
as indicated in Fig. 13, and cut in on the heavy lines. Score 
the vertical lines, and the lines forming the edge of the lap. 
Fold, and glue to shape. Use the piece cut away for the 
back and seat. 

Place this piece on the desk with its short edges parallel 
to the edge, and draw a center line. From the upper cor- 
ners measure down six inches, and draw a line across. Cut 
to this line. Locate points A and B, and from these points 
measure one and three-fourths inches to the right and left, 




CONSTRUCTION IN CARDBOARD. 



95 



and here place dots. Draw lines connecting these dots, and 
cut to the lines. 

From the lower corners of the paper measure up two and 
one-half inches, place dots, and draw a line across. Locate 



< 



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A*" 



fc 

^ 



^ 
^ 



2^__ 



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C-vUr 



3t. 



/° ' 



0-< 



ocJ- 



u 



4, 



fc. 



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£T 



ip 




Fig 13. 



Fig. 15. 



96 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



point C. From points B and C measure to the right and left 
one and one-quarter inches, and draw vertical lines connecting 
these dots. Now from the dots at ends of line C draw lines to 
the upper corners, and cut to these lines. 

From points 1 and 2 measure in three-eighths of an 
inch. Measure the same from the lower corners, and draw 
connecting lines. From points 1 and 2 measure down three- 
eighths of au inch, draw a line across, and cut Out, as indi- 
cated in Fig. 14. 

From the upper corners measure in three-eighths of an 
inch, place dots, and from these dots measure down three- 
eighths of an inch. Shape the top as indicated, and glue 
this back to position. Use for the seat of the chair the 
remaining piece cut away. 

Locate points A and B 
on the center line. From 
point A, measure one and 
one-half inches to the right 
and left, and here place 
dots. From point B, meas- 
ure one and three-fourths 
inches to the right and left, 
place dots and draw the 
connecting lines. Round 
oh* the corners, as indicated 
in Fig. 15, and glue to posi- 
tion. 

MODEL XIII. — BED. 

Material. — Essex bristol ; 
size, 11 in. x 8 in. 

From the upper and 
lower left corneis measure 
in xor vertical lines, three- 
fourths of an inch, five 




Model XII. Chair. 



CONSTRUCTION IN CARDBOARD. 



97 



inches and again three-fourths of an inch. See Fig. 16. 
Cut to the last line. From the upper corners measure 
down three-fourths of an inch, three inches, and again three- 
fourths of an inch. Cut to the last line. Cut in on the heavy 



I 3/ >- 






* — 



~K 



Cb 



Fig. 16. 



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1C 



CO 



t 



2L 










C 



N 1 



tO 






K %? > 



Fig. 17. 



Fig. 18. 



98 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



lines, score all remaining lines, fold and glue. Using the 
waste piece, lay out the drawing for the head and footboards, 
as indicated in Figs. 17 and 18. Out to shape and glue to 
position. 




Model XIII. Bed. 



COURSE IN RAPHIA. 

This course may be introduced into the fourth school year, 
but should not be given to the pupils until the muscles of the 
hand are strong enough to permit the use of a large darning 
needle for sewing. Raphia is the inner fibrous bark of a 
species of palm found in Madagascar. It is sold in twists, 

varying in size and weight 
from two to five pounds, 
and in price from fifteen 
to twenty cents a pound. 
Ten pounds will furnish 
material for a class of fif- 
teen girls for this entire 
course, which may be 
given during the period 
when the boys have shop 
work. 

Materials required are 
scissors, No. 5 darning 
Model i. Round Mat. needles, and raphia. 

As the raphia is braided before sewing, in order to 
facilitate this, we allow the girls to sit before screw hooks, 
fastened at intervals, in the wainscoting, on which they hang 
the strand while braiding. As the raphia is uneven in width, 
a certain thickness of braid must first be decided upon as 
standard for each model, and as many strands of the material 
used as are necessary to plait a three-strand braid of the desired 
thickness, The lengths are added by splicing, not by tying, 
and each pupil may alternately plait and sew, as it is not 
necessary to plait the full length needed before the sewing is 
started. 

LofC. 




100 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



Small tags, to be found at a stationer's, and costing about 
ten cents a hundred, are marked with each pupil's name and 
fastened to her work. By using dyes, many artistic colors 
may be produced and these colored strands used for the entire 
model, or for sewing, etc. 

MODEL I. — ROUND MAT. 

The braid is laid flat and sewed edge to edge, with a large 
darning needle, and for thread the finest strands of raphia, 
which are not to be used in the braiding, but should be 
reserved for sewing. Have the sewing all done on one side — 
and not loosely — the teacher examining the work frequently 
in order to insure even, close sewing. 




Model II. Table Mat. 





Model III. Napkin Ring. 



Model IV. Circular Tray. 



COURSE IN RAPHIA. 



101 




After sewing to the desired size, six inches in diameter, 
add a border. This may be made either by sewing the braided 
strand in single or double points or scallops, or by making a fringe 
of the nnbraided raphia, 
fastening it into the edge 
with a buttonhole stitch. 
By catching the edge 
together in three different 
places this may be con- 
verted into a very lisefnl Model V. Elliptical Tray, 
basket. 

MODEL II.— TABLE MAT. 

This varies from Model I. in shape, being elliptical, and 
in manner of sewing, as the braid is sewed together with the 
hat sides touching, and edges up. A complete set of useful 
table mats may be made, varying in size. 

MODEL III.— NAPKIN RING. 

For this exercise the braid is sewed together with the face 
sides touching; sizes may vary. 




Model VI. Sailor Hat for Doll. 
MODEL IV.— CIRCULAR TRAY. 

Diameter of bottom, four inches. Depth of side, one inch. 

If the braided strand is very coarse the edges may be 
sewed together; if fine, the sides are joined. After making 
the bottom the desired size, add the side to the depth of one 
inch, sewing round and round to the edge of the bottom, and 
frequently allowing the stitches to pass through the entire 
depth of the side. This gives firmness to the finished work. 



102 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 




MODEL V. ELLIPTICAL TEAY. 

Length of bottom, five inches. Depth of side, one and 
one-half inches. Follow directions for Model V. 

MODEL VI. SAILOR HAT FOR DOLL. 

This is started as in Model III. , but the braid must be 
sewed flat, i. e., with edges touching. Trimming may be 
added, either by making a 
braided band and tying the 
ends, adding tassels of the 
same, or by using narrow 
ribbon for the band. Have 
the outside row double in 
thickness. Variety may be 
given to this lesson by en- 
couraging pupils to make 
hats of various shapes, color- 
ing them with- aniline dyes. Model VII. Jewelry Box. 

MODEL VII. JEWELRY BOX. 

If the edges are to be joined 
in sewing, the braid should be 
very heavy, so as to give solidity 
to the finished model. For bot- 
tom, make circular mat four 
inches in diameter. Add side 
to depth of two inches. For 
cover, make circular mat to fit, 
and hinge it to the box by sew- 
ing loosely, adding a loop on the 
opposite side of the cover, which 
may be fastened with a peg pass- 
ing through a loop projecting 
from the front of the box. 

Model VIII. Handkerchief or Sewing Box. 




COURSE IN RAPHIA. 



103 



MODEL VIII. 





Model IX. Sewing Case 




HANDKERCHIEF OR SEWING BOX. 

For this model make the bot- 
tom five inches long and one 
inch wide and add side to the 
depth of four and a half 
inches. Then add the project- 
ing piece for flap, placing a 
loop on the point which is to 
fasten over a button sewed to 
the bag. Add the braided 
chain for hanging, and after 
bending a double piece of stout 
wire into shape for a hook, 
cover it with the braided raphia 
by weaving back and forth. 

MODEL IX. SEWING CASE. 

For this model two pockets 
are made, one with the bottom 
one and one-half inches wide, 
six inches long and sides four 




£ 







Model X. Letter Case. 



Model XI. Wall Pocket. 



104 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



inches deep ; the other one enough larger to admit of its slip- 
ping down outside the smaller,, thus forming a secure covering 
for the scissors, thread, etc., usually carried on a short journey. 

MODEL X. LETTER CASE. 

Length of bottom, six Inches. AVidth of bottom, one inch. 
Depth of side, three inches. Sew into shape and add back for 
hanging, as indicated in the illustration. 

MODEL XI. — WALL POCKET. 

Make oblong mat twelve inches long and eight inches wide ; 
fold up one end so as to make the front of the pocket four 
inches deep. To each corner of this is fastened a braided 
strand two inches long, the other ends of which, being fas- 
tened to the back, hold the pocket in position. Add braided 

cord and tassels to the upper cor- 
ners for hanging. This is very 
effective when made of coarse 
braid. 

MODEL XII. — THERMOMETER 
BACK. 

Sew the braid to fit the ther- 
mometer, leaving a one-inch mar- 
gin. Fasten a cord and tassel for 
hanging. 

Nail the thermometer into 
position, using brass escutcheon 
pins and clinching the brads at 
the back. 

MODEL XIII. CALENDAR BACK. 

Sew back to size for calendar, 
leaving suitable margin. Glue 
calendar to position. 

Model XII. Thermometer Back. 




COURSE IN RAPHIA. 



105 




Model XIII. Calendar Back. 





Model XIV. Handkerchief Case. 



Model XV. Tray. 



MODEL XIV. — HANDKERCHIEF CASE. 

Make a braided square, eight by eight inches. Fold three 
of the corners to the center and sew to position. Place loop 
on the remaining corner, and sew a button to the case for 
fastening the flap in position. 

MODEL XV. — TRAY. 

Make a square eight by eight inches. Fold all corners to 
the center and then back again to the outside edge. Sew the 
edges together and fasten the corners down. 



106 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



MODEL XVI. — SUNBONNET. 

The braid of raphia used for the front of this model 
should be very firmly and finely woven, and in width be not 

more than one-eighth of 
an inch at the edge near 
the crown of the bonnet, 
and but a little wider at 
the front edge. 

In sewing the braid 
into shape use thread, 
with a common sewing 
needle. The crown may 
be made of turkey red 
muslin, or of any color to 
suit the taste of the child 
making it. The front 
should be fitted to the 
doll's head. After sewing 
in the crown, add strings 
for tying, and a bow for 
the front of the crowr 

Model XVI. Sunbonnet 

MODEL XVII. — BOOK BAG. 

Sew the braided raphia into an oblong piece fourteen 
inches long, five inches wide. Double the ends together, and 
join the edges by a raphia strand, braided and sewed on in 
zigzag fashion, leaving the 
sides open for about one 
inch, as shown in Fig. 1. 
Add the handles. 

These bags may be made 
of different sizes, and used 
for various purposes. Fig. 1. 





COURSE IN RAPHIA. 



107 



MODEL XVIII.— RAPHIA DOLLS. I. 

After braiding a length of raphia, in thickness about the 
size of the little finger, cut it into pieces twice the length 

desired for the height 
of the doll. Lay these 
lengths side by side, 
and using a strand of 
raphia, tie them to- 
gether around the mid- 
dle. Now double them 
over at this point, and 
tie again, to form the 
head. 

From this point 
separate such portion 
as will be needed to 
form the arms, and 
after measuring off the 
waist line, tie here. 
Separate the strands 
to form the legs, and 
if more than one braid- 
ed strand is needed to 
form the leg of the 
desired thickness, they 
may be bound together 
by winding round and 
round each leg a strand 
of raphia. Clothing 
may be fashioned from 
tissue paper, and the 
dolls dressed as boys 
or girls. Eyes, nose 
and mouth may be 
marked with ink. 




Model XVIII. Doll I. 



108 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 

MODEL XIX. — DOLL. II. 

Many strands of raphia are laid side by side, on the desk, 
and then tied together around the middle. Double the 




Model XIX. Raphia Doll. 



COURSE IN RAPHIA. 



109 



strands over at this point, and tie another strand aronnd these 
at the point where the neck is to be formed. 

The size of the head thus formed will depend upon the 
number of strands of raphia used. From this point separate, 
at each side, enough strands to form the arms, and into this 
part insert fine bonnet wire, one piece for each arm (copper 
wire may be used), and plait, in a three strand braid, the 
portion set aside for the arms. From the remaining strands 
form the body, and tie again at the waist line, and then sep- 
arate the strands into two equal parts. Now insert two pieces 
of wire, each as long as the doll from head to toe, passing the 
ends up into the head, and braid these strands to form the 




Model XX. Shopping Bag. 



110 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 

legs. The use of the wire permits the bending of the body. 
Three pieces may be inserted into each arm, and six pieces 
into the body. This will give more firmness to the braided 
strand. 

MODEL XX. — SHOPPING BAG. 

The making of this model is simplified by using a form 
over which it is shaped. To make this form, cut two pieces 
of heavy cardboard to the size and shape desired for the face 
of the bag. Place between these pieces enough paper or cot- 
ton to form the desired thickness, and wind around with cord. 
Having braided the raphia, sew together to form an oblong 
piece, fitting the bottom of the form. From the edges of 
this bottom piece form the sides of the bag, frequently placing 
the work over the form in order to secure the desired flare for 
the sides. Add the length for the handle, as indicated in 
the drawing. 



RAPHIA AVITH SLATS, WIRE, ETC. 



Materials used. — Pith, raphia, slats, wire, long wire hair- 
pins, and brass rings of various sizes. Tools, one pair of flat 
pliers, one pair of wire cutters, and a quantity of coarse darn- 



ing needles. 



MODEL I. — MAT. 



The slats used in this model are six inches long and one- 
half inch wide. Use four strips six inches, and one four 
inches in length. Place one above the other, with the shorter 
one inside, and fasten them together in the middle, using a 
slender brad or a large pin. This is to be removed when the 
mat is finished. 

Xow lay this foundation on the desk, and spread the rays 
equally apart. With the raphia weave over one, under one, 
until within one-half inch of the end of the slats, and finish 
the end by sewing it into the edge of the mat ; notch the ends 

of the slats. A second one 
may be made by weaving the 
raphia to the ends of the 
slats, and then sewing the 
edge, as indicated at Fig. I. 
The ends of the slats are 
notched, and below this 
notch a hole is bored (see 
Fig. I.), through which the 
needle passes in sewing. 
Sew over and over, until the 
ends of the slats are covered. 

Fig. 1. 




112 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



MODEL II. BOOK MARKER. 

For the foundation use 

kindergarten "pasting 

slats." These are ten 

inches long and one-quar- 
ter inch wide. Use two 

strips, cutting one into 

three equal pieces, and 

crossing as indicated at 

Fig. 2. 

With a strand of raphia, 

begin at 1 and weave over 

1, under 2, over 3, under 

4, over 5, under 6, over 7, 

and here change and pass 

under tivo slats (Nos. 8 

and 1) ; pass under two 

each time around but 
always make this change 
one slat ahead of the last 
change, i. e. , under 2 and 
3, 4 and 5, etc. 

This is necessary when 
using an even number of 
foundation rays. The work 
would be more simple if 
an uneven number were 
used, and these fastened 
together as in Model I. 
Finish off by notching the 
ends, and sewing the end 
of the raphia into the edge 
of the marker. 




Fig. 2. Detail of Book Marker. 



RAPHIA WITH SLATS, WIRE, ETC. 



113 




Fig. 3. Detail of Open Umbrella. 
MODEL III. — UMBRELLA. 

Material. — Corks (one inch long, one-half inch in diam- 
eter) ; toothpicks, beads and raphia. 

Tools. — Brad awl, scissors and needles. 

Place the small end of the cork on the desk, and with a 
coarse brad awl pierce holes around it about one-fourth inch 
from the end, being careful to insert the brad awl at an angle 
outward. 

Into these holes are placed wooden toothpicks ; these are 
to form the ribs of the umbrella. It is now readily under- 
stood why the holes are to be at an angle. (So that the 
umbrella, when covered, will have the correct slope.) Cover 
this framework with strands of raphia, proceeding in the 
same manner as in raphia and wire mat. Fasten the end of 
the raphia by sewing it into the edge of the work and then 
slip a colored glass bead over the end of each rib. Insert 
another toothpick into the large end of the cork. This will 
form the handle. Slip a larger bead over the end of the han- 
dle to form the knob. 



114 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 




Fig. 4. 
Detail— Umbrella, Closed. 



MODEL IV. — UMBEELLA. (CLOSED.) 

Materials. — Corks, raphia, wire 
hairpins and glass beads. Tools. — 
Needles, scissors, brad awl, and one pair 
combination pliers and wire cutters. 

With the brad awl pierce holes in 
the cork, as in the preceding model, 
having the angle such that the frame 
work will represent a partly closed um- 
brella. 

Using the wire cutters, cut the 
hairpins into the lengths desired for 
the ribs, and insert into the holes the 
ends of these pieces, thus forming the 
framework. 

Now cover this foundation with 
raphia, as in the preceding model. 
Insert another length for the handle, 
and with the pliers, shape the end into 
a crook. 



MODEL V.. BASKET, WITH HANDLE. 

Use for the framework seven pieces of pith, one-quarter 
inch wide and eight inches long, and one piece live inches 
long. 

Place a dot at the middle of each eight-inch piece, and 
one inch from the end of the five-inch piece; fasten all 
together at this dot, using a fine brad, half-inch, No. 20. 
Lay this framework on the desk, and spread the rays to equal 
distances. Draw a line across the width of each, one and 
one-half inches from the center. With a single strand of 
raphia, proceed to weave over one, under one, until the 
pencil lines are reached. 

With a sharp knife score these lines lightly, and from this 
point turn up the rays for the sides. For the weaver, we 



RAPHIA WITH SLATS, WIRE, ETC. 



115 



now use a chree-strand braid 
of raphia {tightly braided), 
and weave under and over 
until the sides are two inches 
deep; then fasten the end. 
Take two strips of pith, 
each one long enough to pass 
around the basket, one out- 
side, one inside, allowing for 
the lap. Holding one end 
of each in place, proceed 
to sew, crossing the threads 
at each spoke, and also pass- 
ing it along from ray to ray, 
as shown in the drawing. 
Use a darning needle, with 
a strand of raphia for the 
thread. 

For the handle, use a 
piece of pith, twelve inches 
long. Insert the ends well 
into the sides of the basket, and, winding a strip of raphia 
back and forth, cover the pith. Fasten the handle firmly 
into the sides of the basket by sewing the raphia (/cross and 
through, as when binding the top. 




Fig. 5. Basket, with Handle 



MODEL VI. — COVER FOR A DRINKING GLASS. 

Having chosen a glass of suitable size and shape, use pith 
one-quarter inch wide for the foundation rays, and cut the 
pieces long enough to pass around the glass lengthwise. The 
number of pieces will vary according to the diameter of the 
bottom of the glass, but must ahvays be an uneven number. 
Fasten all together as in the preceding model, and lay this 
foundation on the desk, with the rays spread equally. 



116 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



Wet the raphia and weave with a single strand, over one, 
under one, to the width of the bottom. At this point, using 
a sharp knife, carefully split the rays, and if the spokes are 
still too far apart insert others at regular intervals, after 
pointing the ends. Now score the pith, crosswise, at point of 

turning up for the sides, weave 
over and under until the required 
depth is reached, and then bind 
the top edge as in the preceding 
model. 

Make the cover, in the same 
manner as the bottom, as large as 
the diameter of the top, and bind 
the edge, holding the pith against 
the thickness of the edge. Sew 
the cover into position and finish 
with a loop of elastic cord. Fas- 
ten a bead the size of a pea on the 
basket opposite the loop on the 
cover; for this use a fine brad 
and clinch it on the inside of the 
basket. The loop should be long 
enough to catch over the bead for 
fastening. 

MAT. 

Circular and oval mats, trays, 

bowls and baskets, may be made 

by twisting many strands of 

raphia into a sort of rope, and 

then sewing this rope into shape, using the buttonhole stitch. 

Taking as many single strands as will make a rope of 

sufficient thickness, wind these for about six inches, with a 

single strand of raphia. 

Then, beginning at the twisted end, place it inside to form 




Model VI. 
Cover for Drinking Glass. 



RAPHIA WITH SLATS, WIRE, ETC. 



117 



the center of the mat. Now with a darning needle, threaded 
with a strand of dampened raphia, join the successive rows, 
as wound See Fig. 7. Hold the loose ends toward the 
body. 

In giving this work to 
very young children it 
will be necessary to wind 
the entire length of the 
rope, additional lengths 
being added by splicing. 
But for the older pupils, 
after the center is well 
started, it will not be 
necessary to wind further, 
as, with the left hand, 
the pupil can easily keep 
the rope in a sort of twist. 
Hold this twisted end 
close against the mat 
until fastened into place, 
and then twist another length and sew, and so on until the 
mat is the desired size. 

BASKET. 

Start with the 
twisted strand, as 
for the circular 
mat. Make the 
bottom of the 
basket three 
inches in diame- 
ter and then form 
the sides. Hold 
the rope so as to 
Fig. 8. Basket. form a gradual 




Fig. 7. Mat (made from twisted raphia' 




118 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



flare to the sides, and form the handle from the one piece — 
that is, the handles are not made separate. After both 
handles are formed, continue the sewing until the handle first 
formed is reached, and fasten the end here. 

It will readily be seen that the firmness of the finished 
basket depends upon the firmness of the twisted rope. For 
large pieces it will be better to have the rope about three- 
fourths of an inch in diameter. 

RUSH OR ROPE BASKET. 

The basket shown in the illustration was made from rush 
which is found growing in marshy regions. Wire was used 
for the joining. A piece of No. 8 reed formed the handle. 
This was then covered with a twist of rush as shown. 

As this material is not always readily obtained, a basket 
may be made from rope, using wire or stout cord for joining. 
Cut the rope into pieces twelve inches in length, and use two 
lengths of wire, each twenty-four inches long. Place one 
piece of rope on the desk and pass both pieces of wire around 
it and cross the ends of each, bringing the wire close to the 
rope, and each piece one and one-half inches away from the 
middle, thus leaving a space three inches between the wire. 
Now place the second piece of rope between the wires and 
again cross the ends and proceed until the last piece of 
rope is added, when the ends of the wire are twisted closely 




Detail of Rush Basket. 




O 
CO 

« 



120 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



and cut. The ends of the rope are now brought together 
and the basket formed into a boat shape. A wire is twisted 
around the ends to hold them firmly in position. The 
foundation for the handles is formed by a piece of reed (No. 
8) fourteen inches in length. This is covered with a twist of 
rope which may be brought over the wire which binds the 
ends together. If stout cord is used for joining it will be 
necessary to tie it after each piece of rope is laid in place, as 
the cord will not hold the rope so firmly as the wire will. 

Baskets of similar shape but larger size may be made from 
cornstalks when, of course, it would be better to use wire for 
joining. 

CUFF AND COLLAR BOX. 

Material. — Pith, one-quarter inch wide, and raphia. 
Dampen the pith, and form a circle five inches in diameter, 
from one end. The pith is now wound in a spiral, to form 
the sides of the box, which should be about five inches in 
height. The raphia is used for joining the pith, as shown in 
the illustration. It must be damp, and used with a coarse 
needle. The bottom of the box may be made of circles of 
thin wood, or of heavy cardboard, and in either case holes are 
bored near the edge of the circle, and this is sewed into the 
edge of the box. 

For the edge of the cover, join, separately, two circles of 
pith, as in the sides of the box, and for the top of the cover 
use a circle of cardboard, covered with raphia. To cover 
this, cut a hole in the center, and work in buttonhole stitch 




^m 



Detail of join of 2d and 3d rows 



raphia With slats, wire, etc. 



121 



around the outer edge, passing the thread through the hole 
in the center. 

Join this covered piece to the edge of the cover, by sewing 
through the ridge formed by the buttonhole stitch. The 
bottom of the box will present a neater appearance if it is 
covered in the same manner. A ring is placed on the top of 
the cover. This is formed of tightly braided raphia, or by 
covering a small brass curtain ring with a buttonhole stitch, 
as in napkin ring. 

After passing once around with the raphia, the thread is 
brought up between 2 and 3, over 3, and then down in front 
of 2, and between the looped stitches; it is then brought out 
between 2 and 3, and back over at A, forming a knot, and so 
on. This makes a very durable and effective join. 




Detail of join of first two rows of side of Cuff Box. 

Pass the raphia, with a buttonhole loop, over strip Xo. 1. 
Bring the end of the thread through this loop, and over strip 

Xo. 2, then down behind 
Xo. 2, and back over the 
thread at B. Then carry 
it lack of Xo. 2, and up 
over it, and here form 
another buttonhole 
stitch. Bring the end 
around Xo. 1, at D, and 
here form another loop, 
and proceed. It will be 
noticed that the loops 

Detail of Top of Cover for Cuff Box. alternate on either side. 




122 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 

FRAME. 

From a square of cardboard cut a circular frame, using 
five and one-half inches for outside diameter and two inches 
for inside. Cover this with raphia, using the buttonhole stitch 
as in detail for cover of cuff and collar box. After the open 
framework is covered glue another circular piece to the back. 
Use braided raphia cord for hanging, or make an easel back. 




Detail of Rings. 
RINGS. 

Rings for various purposes may be made from pith, round 
or split reed. For napkin rings use the split reed (No. 8), or 
pith (No. 5). Make two rings of the same size and join the 
ends of each by lapping and wiring. The ends should be 
trimmed down with a sharp knife so that the join will be 
smooth. Now wet a strand of raphia and thread it through 
a coarse needle. Hold the two rings side by side and join 
them by passing the raphia over the under one, in let ween the 
two, tinder the top one, and then bring the end to the front 
and over the top one, in between the two, behind the lower 
one, back again to the front, in between the two ^nd so on, 
being careful to lay the raphia on closely and evenly. This 
will make a very smooth covering. 

Larger rings for use in ' ' Ring Toss " or with ' ' Grace 
hoops" may be made by using No. 8 (or heavier) round 
reed. Form into rings by splicing and wiring with fine wire. 



RAPHIA WITH SLATS, WIRE, ETC. 



123 




They are covered with raphia in the same manner, but the 
appearance is made more pleasing to the child by coloring the 
raphia before using. This may easily be done by using 
"Diamond Dyes." 

RAPHIA, with WIRE. 

By using wire as a foundation, over which the raphia is 
woven, many artistic articles may be made. Copper wire, 
being very pliable, is often used when the pupils are too 
young to manipulate the heavier iron wire. In size it should 
not be too fine, that of the lead in an ordinary sized lead pen- 
cil being about right. The flat mat is chosen for the first 
lesson, and the wire, having been cut to an even number of 




Detail of Raphia and Wire Mat. 

desired lengths, is crossed at the center, and held between 
the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, while with the 

right hand, the strand of raphia is 
carried under one ray, brought up 
and carried back over the top of the 
same, and then across from the under 




124 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



side to the next spoke, as shown in the detail. This throws 
the covered wire up on top, in the form of a ridge. When 
finished, the ends of the wire are bent over the mat, to pre- 
vent the raphia from slipping off. A fringe is added by- 
looping doubled strands of raphia into the edge. Either side 
may be used for the top. 

RAPHIA, WITH WIRE HAIRPINS. 

By using heavy wire hairpins, substantial foundations for 
many pieces of dolls' furniture may be made. The hairpins 

are firmer than 
the copper wire, 
and may easily be 
cut by using a 
pair of wire cut- 
ters, and bent 
into any desired 
shape with a pair 
of flat pliers. 




Details I. and II. 



RAPHIA WITH SLATS, WIRE, ETC. 



125 



The different parts of the framework should be joined 
firmly by using fine wire, and after the foundation is secured 
it may be painted or not. If the entire framework is not 
painted, it will be necessary to wind, with raphia, the parts 
not covered by the weaving. 

Tables (oblong, square or circular), chairs, of all styles, 
hanging baskets, basinets, etc., etc., may very easily be 
made. 

BASINET. 

In making the basinet, bend the hairpins for the ends, as 
in Detail I., using two hairpins for each end piece. After 
bending to desired shape, wire these pieces together with fine 
wire, and then wind with raphia. 

Detail II. In order to strengthen the framework, a cross- 
piece is placed at the bottom, as seen in the drawing, and the 
ends are brought up to near the top of the uprights, and here 
bent down, so as to form a hook, on which the basket is 
hung. 

Detail III. The framework for the basket is formed by 
using copper wire, and then covered with strands of braided 
raphia. 

MATCH HOLDER. 

Materials. — Raphia, wire 
brads (3 in., No. 14), small can 
of red "carriage paint," wood 
(pine or whitewood), 3 in. x 3 
in. and ^ in. thick, ruler and 
compass. Find the center of 
the square of Avood, and de- 
scribe a circle two inches in 
diameter. Into this circle drive 
an uneven number of long, 
slender brads, being careful to 

have equal spaces between the Fig. 10. Foundation for Match Holder. 




126 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



nails, and to stand them so that the heads point oat^ thus 
making the top larger than the bottom. 

Now, with strands of raphia, weave under and over until 
the heads of the brads are reached, and here fasten the end by 
sewing it into the edge of the holder. While weaving, each 
additional strand needed is added by splicing (i. e., by placing 
the end of the new strand back alongside the end of the last 
strand), and not by tying. This model is made more attract- 
ive by painting the foundation before the raphia is woven in. 
In this case, the work cannot be completed in one lesson, as 
time must be given for the paint to harden. 

Baskets of different sizes may be made by using larger 
squares of wood and brads of the same or longer lengths. 

The appearance of the base is improved if the edge is bev- 
eled. To do this, draw a line on the face of the wood one- 
quarter inch from the edge, and lines on the edges one-eighth 

inch from this face. 

Bevel to these lines, 
either by placing the 
wood in a vise and plan- 
ing to these lines, or by 
using a knife. Cut the 
edges away to these lines. 
Finish to the lings with 
sandpaper. 

ELLIPTICAL BASKET. 

Materials. — Raphia, 
wire brads 3 in. long, and 
red paint; bass wood, 6}( 

in. x 4^ m - x 3 A i n » 

Tools. — Scissors, rule, 
compass, needle, knife, 
hammer, twine. 
Fig. 11. For the bottom of this 




RAPHIA WITH SLATS, WIRE, ETC. 



127 



basket use basswood, y% in. thick, (S% in. long and 4^ in. 
wide. Size of the ellipse to be in. x 4 in. 

Draw lines both lengthwise and crosswise the middle of the 
board. From the point of intersection of these lines, lay off, 
on the long diameter, three inches to the right and left, 
points A and 0, and from the same point lay off two inches, 
above and below, points B and I) on the short diameter. 

"We now have the length and width of the ellipse. Set the 
compass with a radius equal to one-ha'f the long diameter 
(■) in.), and placing the needle point at point marked for out- 
side limit of short diameter, describe arcs, cutting the long 
diameter at 1 and "2. See Fig. 11. Now place one-inch brads 
at points of intersection 1, 2, and at D. Tie a piece of stout 
thread around the brads, slipping it down close to the wood. 
Now remove the brad at D, and place a pencil at this place, 
and move it around on the wood, keeping the point close to 
the string, and so describe the ellipse. Xow cut to this line, 
using a sharp knife. Draw another line around the ellipse, 




Fig. 12. Elliptical Framework for Basket. 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



one-half inch from the edge, and into this line, at every half 
inch, drive wire brads, three inches long, or longer, if desired. 
Paint this foundation with red or blue carriage paint, and set 
aside for twenty-four hours. 

Braid raphia into a fine and close strand, and weave around 
these brads, as in match holder. 

NAPKIN KING. 

Take ten brass curtain rings about one inch in diameter, 
and cover each one of these rings with raphia, worked on in 
buttonhole stitch. See Figs.' 13 and 14. No needle is needed, 




Fig. 13. Detail of Covered Ring. 

as this can easily be done with the fingers. After the ten 
rings are covered, join these by lapping, as in Fig. 15, and 
passing a ribbon (one inch wide), up through the ring at A, 
and (hunt through B, up through C, and down through D, 

and so on, until all 
have been joined, when 
the ends of the ribbons 
are to be tied in a 
double bow. Other 
sizes of rings may be 
covered, according to 
the width desired for 
the napkin ring, or the 
Fig. 14. Detail of Covered Ring. width may be formed 




RAPHIA WITH SLATS, WIRE, ETC. 



129 




by sewing together two or more of 
the covered rings, and then join- 
ing, to form the length, by run- 
ning a ribbon through each row, 
lengthwise, as when forming the 
ring one row wide. 

Instead of ribbon, a five -strand 
braid of raphia may be used for 
joining. This is plaited, as in 
Fig. 16. 

HOLDER FOR BURNT MATCHES. 

Having obtained a glass of 
suitable size and shape take as 
many brass curtain rings one inch 
in diameter as will pass around the 
glass, after being overlapped as in 
Detail No. IV. for the napkin 
ring. Cover the rings as in De- 
tail Xos. VII and II. for the same 
model. After having plaited a 
five-strand braid of raphia pass it 
through these rings, as in Detail 
III., and suspend by a long loop 
of the same. 



Fig. 15. Detail of Napkin Ring. 




Fig. 16. Detail of Five-Strand Plait. 



lau 



RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 



LETTEE CASE. 

For the foundation of this 
useful model obtain a wire sponge 
basket; (a single one costs five 
cents). After covering the loop 
woven on in buttonhole stitch, 
wind the wire reaching from the 
loop to the back of the basket, 
and cover in this same manner 
the top edge of the rack. It will 
be necessary to cross the strand of 
raphia at the point where each 
upright wire joins the top edge. 
This is necessary in order that all 
the wire may be hidden. Cover, 
also, the wire forming the lower 
edge and then, with a strand of 
wet raphia, begin at the lower ends 
of the upright wire and proceed 
to weave the raphia around the 
framework. Do this in the same manner as in covering the 
wire foundation for the circular mat. This may be woven so 
as to throw the ridge on either side, as desired. Trays for 
the dresser may be made from wire soap dishes, and by cover- 
ing the wire holders used for ginger ale bottles, and placing 
a glass inside, very pretty vases may be made. 

KNOT WORK. 

The following simple exercises are made in chain stitch, 
with the fingers; without the aid of a crochet-hook : 

HORSE REINS. 

Use a piece of soft twisted cotton twine and in length 
three times that desired for the finished work, i. e., four 
and one-half yards of twine for a finished length of one and 
one-half yards. Begin by forming a loop in one end by knot- 




Model XVII. 
Holder for Burnt Matches. 



RAPHIA WITH SLATS, WIRE, ETC. 



131 




Fig. 18. Wire Foundation for Letter Case. 

ting. Hold this knot between the thumb and finger of the left 
hand and use the right hand to pnll the twine np through this 
loop, carefully keeping the free end toward the right hand. 

Tighten or shorten this loop by pulling on the side toward 
the knot. This forms the chain stitch. Continue to the end, 
being careful to have the work uniform in thickness through- 
out the entire length. The cross-piece is made separate, and 
to this the bells are fastened. String the bells to this piece 
by passing a finer cord in and out the meshes and through the 
bells at the point where they are to be fastened to the cross- 
piece, arid then on to the end. 

The ends of the piece used for stringing are to be fastened 
into the main one, together with the loose ends of the cross- 
piece. These ends are woven in and out, and then fastened 
down by using a needle and strong thread 



132 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 

WHISTLE CHAIN". 

For this exercise use No. 20 twine. Knot for the loop so 
as to leave the short end about three inches long. Proceed as 
for the reins, and when the chain is of the desired length, 
finish by working a chain stitch down the length of the short 
end, and to this fasten the whistle. 

CHAIN FOR SCISSORS. 

A chain for hanging scissors may be made in the same 
manner as the whistle chain or by plaiting a three-strand braid 
with double or triple strings, care being taken to keep the 
strings perfectly flat while working. This plait may be used 
by itself and the scissors fastened to the end, or by using brass 
curtain rings it can be made the same as napkin ring. (See 
raphia work.) 

MINNOW NET. 

For the framework use a piece of round reed six feet 
in length. Double this, and at the doubled end form a 
hoop by winding the remaining ends firmly together, using 
cotton twine. No. 00. This will form the handle. For a net 
one foot deep, cut the twine into four-feet lengths. Double 
these pieces and passing the loop up and through the hoop, 
bring it over to the outside and pass the ends through. Loop 
on the remaining lengths, leaving not more than one inch 
space between each piece. Beginning at any spot, take an 
end from each adjoining pair and tie a simple knot. Con- 
tinue around the hoop in this manner. Then begin on the 
next row, and so on, until you have the net ready to shape the 
bottom for finishing. Now knot the strings a little closer 
together, and cut oif one string from every fifth pair. Con- 
tinue to knot as before until you come to the fifth one, and 
here take a string from each side of the single one and knot 
these two together with the single one and then cut off the 
single string. Continue in the same manner with the remain- 
ing ones, cutting more frequently, until the bottom is the 
requisite shape. 



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